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Funhouse - flipper slow to return (and bonus question)

Durzel

Durzel

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Oct 1, 2017
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Bath, UK
Ello - Happy New Year and stuff...

My mate's Funhouse has developed a bit of an odd behaviour. The main left flipper is slow to return to its resting position. This happens after every activation, and is a consistently slow speed.

Initially I thought maybe it was a clearance problem (despite the fact the flipper has never been touched) but there is space between the playfield at the plastic, so it's not that. I'm also unconvinced it's a coil problem as there is no issue with the power of the flipper when used, but the slow return is both distracting and is causing gameplay issues. It behaves this way even if the flipper is manually moved with the power off.

Anyone have any thoughts as to what this could be?

And the bonus starter for 10 - on my TZ I've noticed that some of the bulbs haven't been changed to LEDs. I'm only talking perhaps 4 or 5, but bearing in mind everything else is LED and no expense appears to have been spared elsewhere I have to believe there is some logic to why this is, rather than cost saving. To give an example - the white insert (?) between the pop bumpers is a regular incandescent bulb. The only thing I can think is that the socket is slightly recessed from the insert and the previous owner couldn't be bothered to buy any of those flexible LEDs? Beyond that I'm at a loss...
 
Durzel said:
Ello - Happy New Year and stuff...

My mate's Funhouse has developed a bit of an odd behaviour. The main left flipper is slow to return to its resting position. This happens after every activation, and is a consistently slow speed.

Initially I thought maybe it was a clearance problem (despite the fact the flipper has never been touched) but there is space between the playfield at the plastic, so it's not that. I'm also unconvinced it's a coil problem as there is no issue with the power of the flipper when used, but the slow return is both distracting and is causing gameplay issues. It behaves this way even if the flipper is manually moved with the power off.

Anyone have any thoughts as to what this could be?

And the bonus starter for 10 - on my TZ I've noticed that some of the bulbs haven't been changed to LEDs. I'm only talking perhaps 4 or 5, but bearing in mind everything else is LED and no expense appears to have been spared elsewhere I have to believe there is some logic to why this is, rather than cost saving. To give an example - the white insert (?) between the pop bumpers is a regular incandescent bulb. The only thing I can think is that the socket is slightly recessed from the insert and the previous owner couldn't be bothered to buy any of those flexible LEDs? Beyond that I'm at a loss...
Click to expand...

I’d undo the Allen bolt and check free play on the plunger and linkeage although I know nothing specific about a FH.

I had to file down the sides of the LEDs that I put under the orange bits in the pic using a dremel as they are a few mm wider than a normal bulb. I’m actually considering pulling them all back out as although they’re sold as ‘warm white’ they look Arctic compared to regular bulbs. Seriously unimpressed having just sunk them into all entire playfield during the rebuild.

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20180103_ffe4fa4073285047a03085f2b930f52d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
On fh, there are a few candidates.

Remember that the flipper is extended by a powerful magnetic field, but is only returned by a weak spring. Any friction in the mechanism can lead to a slow return

Take a digital photo, so you log where everything goes, remove the coil stop and then the coil. You can see what state the flipper mechanism is in ...
  • Oiled and gummed up ?
  • Weak return spring ?
  • Worn plastic link?
  • Mushroomed plunger ?
  • Magnetized plunger or coil stop ?
  • Misaligned mech ?
  • Over tightened bolt through the plunger link ?
  • Knackered sleeve ?
  • Coil has been fried so is too tight ?
On tz

Sometimes leds are too bright, especially flashers under clear inserts. Or he ran out, or it is a dodgy socket that just happens to prefer incandescents. Incandescent bulbs generally fit better and are less fussy about alignment
 
Thanks. The FH spring does look a bit "spongey", but it doesn't look dramatically different from the other (working) one. Guess best thing to do as you suggest is take photos of it and have a crack at taking it apart.

I actually had a look at the underside of my TZ earlier, and it looks like there are only two bulbs that aren't LEDs...

i.imgur.com_PDa0cBLt.jpg

Weird..
 
Just thought I'd update this to say I fixed the flipper using a single squirt of WD40 on the sleeve. Didn't have to take anything apart at all. :oops:

Don't know if that's the done thing or not, but could see by holding back the spring that the sleeve itself was sluggish to come back out.

Regards TZ lights - have discovered that all of the flashers are incandescent. Guess the original owner left them like that for looks. Didn't even realise there would be flashers underneath the playfield. :oops:
 
Durzel said:
Just thought I'd update this to say I fixed the flipper using a single squirt of WD40 on the sleeve. Didn't have to take anything apart at all. [emoji15]

Don't know if that's the done thing or not, but could see by holding back the spring that the sleeve itself was sluggish to come back out.

Regards TZ lights - have discovered that all of the flashers are incandescent. Guess the original owner left them like that for looks. Didn't even realise there would be flashers underneath the playfield. [emoji15]
Click to expand...

Nooooo! You just swore.

WD40 (or any other lube) is a really bad idea.

It can be a fire hazard as well as attracting all the dirt which then acts like grit and wrecks the components.

But you’ve at least identified that it was friction causing the problem.

A new sleeve is pence. If you have a manual, find the part number and google it (or just email @pinballmania with the machine you have). I’d also replace the plunger and linkeage while you have it apart. Then clean all the lube off. All pinball components run dry. There are one or two exceptions to this rule (like drop targets) but anything to do with solenoids runs dry.

Just take photos as you go so everything goes back the right way around. You can leave the coil soldered on to the loom and just clean in situ with the metal parts removed. Maybe invest a fiver in some isopropyl alcohol to clean the oil off using a paper towel. You can then pour the rest into a takeaway plastic container and bathe the metal parts in it and clean those up with a toothbrush. Fit new coil sleeve and you’ll be back in action. Just be absolutely certain it’s all evaporated before you turn the power back on!
 
Thanks. It seemed like an obvious fix at the time. It's my friends Funhouse, and it was his idea. That's my excuse. :(

Will inform my friend (who is now happily playing it) that he'll need to do what you've suggested ASAP.

Thanks again. :(
 
Durzel said:
Thanks. It seemed like an obvious fix at the time. It's my friends Funhouse, and it was his idea. That's my excuse. :(

Will inform my friend (who is now happily playing it) that he'll need to do what you've suggested ASAP.

Thanks again. :(
Click to expand...

Haha no problem. At least he’s playing it and enjoying it, but not in ignorance! You did him a favour ;)
 
Others may be able to point you to the part number he needs if he’s not got a manual - just post up on here and someone will know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I should be able to find it on his behalf. I'll probably end up involved in doing the work, but I've never resleeved a coil before. The assembly looks alright though and as said as long as plenty of photos taken it should be straightforward enough. :thumbs:
 
Martin Yapp said:
Takes 2 minutes, easy as pie.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I meant the work in cleaning off the WD40, replacing the plunger and linkage, etc as suggested. Will see when he/I get a chance to take another look I guess. Thanks all :)
 
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