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For Sale Feed Frenzy Power Distribution Board

MadNat

MadNat

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Joined
May 11, 2019
Messages
1,047
Location
Warwickshire UK
Hello - I still have a few of my Pinball Power Distributio boards - takes 12V input and provides 4 x 5V & 12V output. They are £25 each including UK shipping.

The connectors are JST 4 pin latched headers- you need these to connect to them VHR-4N these connectors use these pins: BVH-21T-P1.1 - I have some left from my recent projects, so let me know if you'd like some connectors included and I'll pop some in the package for you. With a connector in place - you'd need 30mm clearance for height. Should be able to put anywhere on your machine, under playfield or in the the back box.

The board is quite small - and can be mounted with Hook and Loop Tape to prevent holes in your machine. It measures 90mm W x 63mm D -
FFV1.jpg

If you'd like one (or more!) please PM me for payment details and with your address.

Thanks
Mike
 
Looks pretty cool, what does the (optional?) micro-controller do?
 
russdx1 said:
Looks pretty cool, what does the (optional?) micro-controller do?
Click to expand...
I have a second version that has a ESP8266 (12F) installed. I created this to drive LED strips - the individual addressable kind that you see everywhere at Christmas!

We've used this on several projects - mod lighting, speaker lights and I guess you could even use it for a low cost Pin Stadium. There are some demo's on my pathetic excuse of a YouTube Channel 😂😂

The Firmware I like to use (and the board is pre-loaded with it) is WLED. WLED is a really cool open source app that lets you control everything via wifi from your phone or laptop - colour, animation, break strips in to segments - all manner of features and functions for driving colour changing LED's. Check out the project here: WLED Project
IMG_1411.jpg

I have a few of this version left - they are £45 each if anyone would like one.

Thanks for the question!
 
All my pins utilise one of these along with a separate PSU rather than draw from the Pin. The upgraded feed frenzy one is worth the upgrade when installing your own addressable Speaker Lights, toppers or Mods.
Great piece of kit and highly recommended.
 
Colywobbles said:
All my pins utilise one of these along with a separate PSU rather than draw from the Pin. The upgraded feed frenzy one is worth the upgrade when installing your own addressable Speaker Lights, toppers or Mods.
Great piece of kit and highly recommended.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your support Col - really enjoyed putting the Speaker Light kits together with you (and various other random laser based projects!).

Wishing you and family a great 2022.
 
Thanks for the recommendations, purchased one.

Advice for the external power please:

Would this be suitable:

www.ebay.co.uk

Regulated Switching Power Supply 3.3V 5V 9V 12V 18V 24V 36V 48V Universal PSU DC | eBay

3V 10A 30W 160x100x42mm. 3V 20A 60W 200x100x42mm. 3V 40A 120W 200x110x50mm. 9V 5A 45W 110x78x36mm. 9V 30A 270W 215x115x50mm. 36V 4.2A 150W 200x100x42mm. 36V 5.5A 200W 220x110x50mm. 36V 9.7A 350W 215x115x50mm.
www.ebay.co.uk

12 volt 5amp 60 watt, need to power some light mods.

And now for a stupid question, the best place to get the wire to fit it, what type and grade please?
 
cmrl9 said:
Just in case you aren't aware you will need an external power supply to run it, these are distribution boards. :)
Click to expand...
This is true for most machines - in my Bally/Williams machines I've used a fairly chunky 12V AC-DC power supply. Something like this - 12V 30A DC Power Supply. These are probably overkill, and much lower amps would be absolutely fine for the vast number of mods driving LED's etc.

On many Stern Games there is a 12V Aux power adapter (I am reliably informed), so you can connect to that without the need of an extra power supply. So maybe worth checking first.
 
1
MadNat said:
This is true for most machines - in my Bally/Williams machines I've used a fairly chunky 12V AC-DC power supply. Something like this - 12V 30A DC Power Supply. These are probably overkill, and much lower amps would be absolutely fine for the vast number of mods driving LED's etc.

On many Stern Games there is a 12V Aux power adapter (I am reliably informed), so you can connect to that without the need of an extra power supply. So maybe worth checking first.
Click to expand...
Thanks there is, running one or two off it is fine, but I have several which I believe based on advice I have been given this will be a problem. Safer to have a separate supply. 🙂
 
MadNat said:
This is true for most machines - in my Bally/Williams machines I've used a fairly chunky 12V AC-DC power supply. Something like this - 12V 30A DC Power Supply. These are probably overkill, and much lower amps would be absolutely fine for the vast number of mods driving LED's etc.

On many Stern Games there is a 12V Aux power adapter (I am reliably informed), so you can connect to that without the need of an extra power supply. So maybe worth checking first.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the Amazon link, I'm always a little caisious
MadNat said:
This is true for most machines - in my Bally/Williams machines I've used a fairly chunky 12V AC-DC power supply. Something like this - 12V 30A DC Power Supply. These are probably overkill, and much lower amps would be absolutely fine for the vast number of mods driving LED's etc.

On many Stern Games there is a 12V Aux power adapter (I am reliably informed), so you can connect to that without the need of an extra power supply. So maybe worth checking first.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the Amazon link, just noticed it. eBay and electronics are a bit of a minefield, prefer one that doesn't blow up or melt 🤭😉
 
VeeMonroe said:
I’ve ordered one of these on advice from @MadNat:


But would appreciate advice on cabling and how/where to connect it up on a LoTR. It didn’t come with any cables - it’s just the actual box - and we haven’t had the opportunity to have a good look at it because our household has ‘murder cold’ (i.e. omicron).
Click to expand...
Il let you know what's required when I work out how to fit mine.

Taken from my STTNG shop build, when I was asking about wire for an upkicker this was the response I got from @Fifty

It's just copper stranded wire. No shielding, nothing really special about it. Usually 18-22AWG.

Looking at the card today, you will need wire to connect from the power supply to the card. Not sure if the power supply has a plug feed or you have to wire it up.

If your mods are far away you will need a female molex connector, some pins and molex tool, to connect the wire together and some more wire to run it back to the card and the appropriate connector to use on the card.

I personally would place the power supply and card at the back base. You can then run the power cable needed for the mod through the back grill and there plenty of vents to keep it cool.
 
Sorry to hear about the lurgy... hope all recover fast.

You will need to work out the best place to secure that new power supply. In my Bally/WIlliams machine I put it at the very back of the Cabinet - directly under the Backbox.

Then you need to connect the input AC (240V - so you have to be very careful - ensure machine is disconnected!).

I used an old PC power cord as the mains input power cable, with each end cut off - stripped, Live, Neutral and Earth and connected that to the marked terminals on the power supply.

The other end of the PC Power cord needs to be connected to 120V or 240V.

On some Stern machines there is actually a switched 120V power source near the coin door - I understand that was provided to power accessories such as the Bill Acceptor. Have a look at your game - see if yours is there - makes install a lot easier.

If like me it is not there for your games, I connected to the 240V switched input to the game transformer (This bit is tricky and you need to check the documentation/schematic for your specific machineI).

I did this by removing the pins - from the molex connector to the transformer, and crimping the PC Live and Switched Live to the same pin and reinserted to the molex. I repeated the same for the Neutral. I then connected the earth to the common earth Braid on the machine.

For me this worked great as the existing switch fuse protected the game and the new power supply, and the power supply turns on when I turn the game on.
 
MadNat said:
Sorry to hear about the lurgy... hope all recover fast.

You will need to work out the best place to secure that new power supply. In my Bally/WIlliams machine I put it at the very back of the Cabinet - directly under the Backbox.

Then you need to connect the input AC (240V - so you have to be very careful - ensure machine is disconnected!).

I used an old PC power cord as the mains input power cable, with each end cut off - stripped, Live, Neutral and Earth and connected that to the marked terminals on the power supply.

The other end of the PC Power cord needs to be connected to 120V or 240V.

On some Stern machines there is actually a switched 120V power source near the coin door - I understand that was provided to power accessories such as the Bill Acceptor. Have a look at your game - see if yours is there - makes install a lot easier.

If like me it is not there for your games, I connected to the 240V switched input to the game transformer (This bit is tricky and you need to check the documentation/schematic for your specific machineI).

I did this by removing the pins - from the molex connector to the transformer, and crimping the PC Live and Switched Live to the same pin and reinserted to the molex. I repeated the same for the Neutral. I then connected the earth to the common earth Braid on the machine.

For me this worked great as the existing switch fuse protected the game and the new power supply, and the power supply turns on when I turn the game on.
Click to expand...
Thanks very helpful
 
VeeMonroe said:
I’ve ordered one of these on advice from @MadNat:


But would appreciate advice on cabling and how/where to connect it up on a LoTR. It didn’t come with any cables - it’s just the actual box - and we haven’t had the opportunity to have a good look at it because our household has ‘murder cold’ (i.e. omicron).
Click to expand...
This thread seems to cover it

DIY: adding an external power supply to a Stern SAM/Whitestar | All modding! | Pinside.com

| Forum Topic by lyonsden
pinside.com pinside.com

Although I'm not 100 sure it's correct, still trying to work out where the 120v feed is
 
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