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differences between bally rectifier boards AS-2518-18 & AS-2518-49?

Clioryder

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I believe a bally space invaders uses a as-2518-49 rectifier board.

would it be possible to use an AS-2518-18 as there much easier to come by??

possibly beefing some of the components as far as I can see theres only a difference is on the transformer winding 4. the AS-2518-18 supplys 7.8v and the AS-2518-49 is 9.2v???
are these boards transferable at all? possibly altering it slightly to cope this this slightly higher voltage?

thanks for your help clearing this matter up for me
oliver
 
Do you have the board at all?

no I just found this one on ebay :-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-Ne...m=271329220936&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219

and in the description it sed
'' is board is a direct replacement for the original OEM rectifier board.
The original power supply that this board replaces is Bally part numbers: AS2518-18 & AS-2518-49 ''

I had a look around and they do look dam similar and assumed they would do the same job... so iv bought one from the uk and wanted to double check before blowing any boards up what everyone else thought haha
 
Yes that one is designed to replace both, perhaps the -49 is backwards compatible as it's beefed up. A few OEMs make these, RD aren't the most popular on here but that board should be ok as it's relatively simple. Note J1 has 9 pins and screened text indicating that pin 9 may be unused ie for the -18 games.
http://rottendog.us/bps018.html
 
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Yes that one is designed to replace both, perhaps the -49 is backwards compatible as it's beefed up. A few OEMs make these, RD aren't the most popular on here but that board should be ok as it's relatively simple. Note J1 has 9 pins and screened text indicating that pin 9 may not unused ie for the -18 games.
http://rottendog.us/bps018.html

ahhh I see, ok thankyou for clearing this up for me! :thumbs: ill obviously test all the voltages before I go plugging boards in and ill se what I come up with :)
 
Further down the repair guide it says that the -18 rectifier board can be used in the three -49 games (Kiss, Space Invaders, Future Spa) if the necessary upgrades have been performed to the rectifier board, I guess you'd have to splice the extra switched illumination bus pin J1-9 wire to J1-7 too. The big caveat though is that the transformer outputs are slightly different so you must swap from a E-122-131 back to E-122-125 too.

After SI they continued with the old A2 assembly (-125 transformer plus -18 etc) for a bunch more games in 1980 until Xenon.

I'd like an SI one day so all interesting background stuff for me.
 
ahh ok, is that on the pin wiki around 3.8.1 section??
I have the E-122-131 transformer tho so I was thinking I could possibly use a ac voltage dropper circuit until I came across a e-122-125 so that I could match the voltage output of winding 4 on the -125?
ill have to have a good look at the board when it shows and see how pin 9 is connected ect..

after having a look at the rotten dog schematics for the BPS018 board so long as I get 5.4v on tp1 that's for pin 7 and 9 I should be good I think
 
No, I was comparing the power schematics in the manual between earlier -18 games and the three -49 games - that's how I roll on a Saturday morning:rolleyes:

E-122-131 is the correct transformer for SI and the Rottendog board you've bought is supposedly compatible with both -18 and -49 rectifier boards, as such it should be compatible with both versions of their related transformers one would think. I think you're good, but you're getting into the joys of OEM boards. As you suggested above once you wire the transformer to the board check all the TPs are in range before plugging anything in - the -49 TP values are shown on the yellow "Power Transformer Module Schematic", I'd check your outputs through the RB board are the same as shown here. You could even check the outputs of your transformer first on the wires before connecting to the board - also shown on that schematic. BE CAREFUL WILL ROBINSON - HIGH VOLTAGES.

1541849853197.png
 
ahhh I see I see!!
well im glad you looked into this! its defiantly given me some clarity!:thumbs:
yes I think I will just go though at every stage checking voltages as I go,
haha yeah they seem to have gone one way with this design and then decided the old way was better haha
and yeah I don't fancy giving myself a hart attack! ill be careful:rolleyes:
 
what is the matter with the old original one?,I fixed mine by replacing the bridge rectifiers with more beefy ones?
 
I've looked at the RD schematic, the SI E-122-131 transformer puts out a slightly higher voltage of 9.2 VAC (vs 7.8VAC on -125) for the switch illumination. As such you should read around 6.5VDC at TP1 which is per the SI manual at J3-6, J1-7 and J1-9. The RD schematic is labelled as though an E-122-125 is connected.
 
I just looked at this as well. As far as I can see you can use a -18 in place of a -49 no problem with doing the following, irrespective of which Transformer you have -131 or -125

1) splice J1/7 to an extra connector pin J1/9
2) Upgrade the 3x bridges to 35a bridges and mount them "off board" and screw them to the backbox metal panel with heatsink compound - which you should do anyway on these old games as especially the controlled lamps bridge wears down and dims the bulbs

The difference will be that you have about 1vdc less for controlled lamps on the -18 board so 5.4vdc compared to about 6.4vdc so the bulbs will burn slightly dimmer (or put in LED's). The extra +-/2vac from the transformer won't afftect any of the components on the -18 board and as you are putting in 35a bridges the extra current draw for a -49 game will be no issue as that bridge can handle 3x required amps...
 
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