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Data East Shaker Motor

PinIB

PinIB

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Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
393
Location
Manchester
Quick question.

Just looking at a DE JP. To cut a long story short (no pun intended) - it had loads of faults. No 5v and a shorted transistor (Q2 TIP36C) and burnt out headers / connectors.

I tested resistance on all the coils except the Raptor pen (first mistake). I saw the Raptor coil firing in test mode OK so left it. All switches tested ok in diagnostic test.

Started a game. Q2 shorted again. Raptor coil shorted and fried but diode on coil tests OK.

When I booted up for a test game the shaker never did anything from switching on to starting the game. I never noticed at the time to be honest as I’ve never had a shaker before.

I can obviously rebuild and test without the shaker connected.

Anyone had trouble with shakers on DE? What’s the best way to test it before replacing quiet a few fried components.

Any ideas appreciated!
 
The shaker motor has an associated pcb and they are known to be problematic. Look there first and reflow solder on that board.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I suppose I’m asking whether the shaker motor can cause a short and whether it’s happened to anyone. I’m pretty sure Q2 has something to do with driving both the Raptor coil and the shaker motor but I’m a noob.

I took the Raptor coil off and disconnected the shaker motor and got it playing with some spare xpin boards I had. Fortune favours the brave (stupid!).
 
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You can download the manual from ipdb. P31 shows shaker motor shares bi-directional relay with T-rex Bi directional motor (presumably that is the Dino Left/Right motor). Not sure which coil you disconnected but Raptor Pit coil runs off Q4. Same page shows shaker motor on Q2.

Does your dino work in all directions in the test menu?
Also, does your bi-directional relay also work?
And have you tested the the transistors Q2 and Q4 on the PPB with a DMM?

I seem to recall from 15 years ago when I refurbed a JP that shorts were common in the Dino wiring and getting the dino working properly is hard work.
 
Yes - I’ve tested everything on the ppb board. Apologies - it was Q4 that shorted. I mixed up the numbers as the board is installed with the text upside down.

There is a good chance that it is just the Raptor coil shorted (although I had seen it working). The coil is 100% dead short now. I’m not sure why the fuses didn’t blow as they are all correct.

The Dino was working until I disconnected everything on the board by the shaker. I’m going to reconnect that tomorrow without the power to the shaker which I don’t trust. This should get the Dino left/right working again.

Hopefully a new coil and diode will sort it.

Thanks for your help.
 
I expect that will have it sorted, together with changing out Q4 and also Q30/Q22 on MPU Board if they are also shorted.

Have you checked the diodes on the shaker board?
And tested Q24 with your DMM (which controls the relay for the shaker motor and Dino L/R)?
 
It's one thing after another with this one. I've got a switch matrix fault with row 7 now which also contains a dino switch (31) which is probably where I'll start. The left flipper results in a slam tilt. They're all on row 7.

The diodes on the shaker board all test OK. I'll test Q30/Q22 before connecting a new coil plus sort this row 7.

I can see the attraction of a Stern JP!
 
@Asiapinball thanks for the replies on this.

DE JP now fully working. There was a fault on every board with the exception of the sound board and a shed load of fried connectors.

The only battle scar is a fried plastic from a fried coil. Full refurb for this one and pinballcode roms.
 
It’s the one above the raptor pit. The raptor kick back coil fried it.

I’m OCD about plastics so I’ll also be replacing the cracked ones. I’m happy to buy a job lot off you.
 
I don't have the raptor one. I just checked what I have and it is surprisingly little. Just the two big rectangular plastics from the back and one small plastic.

Probably best if you bought a complete set if you have more than a few broken. Marcos have the full set and also the dino collar and slings / easy break separately. Not sure on quality; might be worthwhile asking on here before buying.

Judging by the bag of cracked plastics that I have found in my plastics stash there are lots of plastics that break easily on this machine (saved 20 years ago when I parted out a JP and any plastics were unobtainium, so even mildly cracked plastics had value back then).
 
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