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CV Ringmaster top plate removal

Mike Kindler

Site Supporter
10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
278
Location
South Croydon
I'm trying to get into my Ringmaster's head but, as you can see from the picture, what should be a screw in the middle isn't!


Any ideas how I can make progress?
 

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Hi Mike,

bit hard to tell from the picture, but I'm assuming that what is in the middle is a cross head screw that has had the metal squashed down into the slots by the action of the ball/magnet?

have you just tried to turn the top plate (in an unscrewing direction), hopefully the screw will turn with it.

Depending on how bad it is, you can usually get the slot back by forcing a small screwdriver or even a stanley knife into what remains of the slot.

Cheers
Geoff
 
I wondered what they were for! Now I'll have to buy one, any suggestions which model turns out best for fixing pinball machines? I'd hate to lay out teh dosh and find I needed the next one up!:redface:
 
Good to see you still have the CV Mike. Never did get round to fixing that top plate.....Good o'l dremel to the rescue should sort is as mentioned. Dremel 4000 (corded - best model for performance) or the Dremel 8200 (cordless - best cordless performance). Either will do what you need, but the cordless is better for manoeverability.
 
There are non-branded versions with the same idea that might be as good but personally I think Dremel's are amazing and worth the money. Mine is still working after years of abuse.
The quick lock system for special blades is certainly worth getting, there is a bewildering range of attachements that ca be bought separately.
 
Dont be cheap and buy one of those 'other' models. I have tried many, and all of them suffer from the same problem. The inner collars on the cheapo models is usually made from chinese butter metal and wont last long, rendering the whole tool completely useless. The Dremel design is far superior and as Calimori says, will take the abuse for years.
 
OK, Dremel arrived this morning. Wasted an hour or so finding out what all the bits did. Designed a handy swarf catcher so I didn't get bits ground into the payfield and cut a slot in the top of the plate. Grabbed screwdriver to test my handiwork and found that the entire top plate turns and if I'd been bolder I might have found this out before I invested a oner on the new dremel. Still I expect it will come in handy over the years!
 

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Just had a thought, I can use my new super duper dremel to buff off all that manky old glue on the plate. I'll have to do something about that ugly scar across the middle of the top though. I wonder what numpty did that? Would mylar wear through over time?
 
Something else for idle pinheads to debate while I'm at my club tonight. I have both ringmasters. Do I put the spooky LED eyes in the fat boy or his skinny older brother? I reckon the fat one should be easier to come by if necessary but which way should I go? Its here I'd normally say "answers on a postcard please" but we have a forum now so save your stamps.
 
hey Mikey, idle pinhead here 🍵

how about we get to choose between the fat and the thing ringmasters by you showing us some lovely comparison pictures?
 
Just had a thought, I can use my new super duper dremel to buff off all that manky old glue on the plate.

Yep, you can indeed. :biggrin1:

I'll have to do something about that ugly scar across the middle of the top though. I wonder what numpty did that? Would mylar wear through over time?

A dremel can help polish/grind (!) out the scar too (although the mylar will cover it nicely so I wouldn't bother in case you some how accidently make things worse)... and no the Mylar will not wear through. :rockon:
 
Your wish is my command o cooldan! When will you invent a holster that can load the coolest kid in pinball as well as dog dreads?
 

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Skinny all the way. I know it sometimes gets balls trapped behind it, but that machine is a prototype (only 200 made) and came with the skinny one so my vote is for originality.

Oh, you can buy nice new top plates from pinball heaven.
 
I know it sometimes gets balls trapped behind it

Which is why they produced the other one... if a ball jams at the wrong time it'll shred the gearbox... but I suppose if you can afford a CV you can afford to replace the gearbox every once in a while...!!! :bolt:
 
I've put it all together but found that I should have placed the LEDs closer to the iris at the front of the eyeball. As it is located the blue floods the whole eye rather than just the iris part.

Does anyone have any tips or cautions for the removal of glue gun adhesive around an LED? I'm thinking of using the dremel to cut away the glue around the LED and have another go. I've mailed the glue gun company who do not recommend using a heat gun to soften the glue.
 

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