You've changed.
I don't even feel like I know you anymore.
I was expecting pink cable ties, anodized nuts and glittery screws . . . . I feel sick.
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Complete Creature from the Dank Saloon **Finished** .. Full Pics!!
- Thread starter stumblor
- Start date
You've changed.
I don't even feel like I know you anymore.
I was expecting pink cable ties, anodized nuts and glittery screws . . . . I feel sick.
Hi Davey,
First thing, One of your switches has a short, doode. Closely inspect them all. And take it from there. (As could be other issues). Then ditch the rotten dog board unless you can be bothered
To upgrade all the transistors from the crappie super cheap 13n10's to IRL540's then you can have a bit more confidence in that power pcb!!......Done it many times ........
First thing, One of your switches has a short, doode. Closely inspect them all. And take it from there. (As could be other issues). Then ditch the rotten dog board unless you can be bothered
To upgrade all the transistors from the crappie super cheap 13n10's to IRL540's then you can have a bit more confidence in that power pcb!!......Done it many times ........
OP
OP
Thanks Keef. Do you mean playfield switches? Don't have anything plugged in yet except the secondary cables into this board, as I wanted to confirm everything in steps.
One other thing I wasn't sure about was the power coming from the transformer. Its reading higher than expected but is that just due to my UK voltage being 244 instead of 230?
One other thing I wasn't sure about was the power coming from the transformer. Its reading higher than expected but is that just due to my UK voltage being 244 instead of 230?
Yes, any switch on the matrix...To be clear are you saying the playfield is completely disconnected?.....check the cables, in that case......I know it sounds crazy, but check those crap transistors on the rotten dog. I have had them blow on power up for no reason. (Maybe they were duff from new, no idea on rottendog quality control)........
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Yes the playfield is entirely disconnected - however the interconnect cable was still in. I removed that, and LED4 came on. Replaced fuse, traced it through and found that the fliptronic interconnect was wired wrong (oops) fixed that and all LEDs on the power board light. Yeah!
And more importantly...
HE LIVES!
Raaarwgh. Me no care I upside down rawgh
And more importantly...
HE LIVES!
Raaarwgh. Me no care I upside down rawgh
Looking amazing!
Is there a facility to 'flip' the display image?. I don't recall the film being projected upside-down at any point during the game, though it isn't a favourite of mine.
I’d guess the dmd is just mounted incorrectly
it is a favourite of mine
looking awesome btw
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I’d guess the dmd is just mounted incorrectly
it is a favourite of mine
looking awesome btw
Yep nothing so clever as a setting. Just a good, old fashioned noob mistake!
And thanks fellas feeling pretty proud of myself.
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So on to the next round of issues 
Two GI strings out on the backbox, white-orange and white-violet. Continuity on the cable ok. Checked the pins on the power board, white-yellow is reading around 8VAC, but nothing on the other two. I've checked the fuses for those lines (F106 and F109) and they're okay. The same lines are out on both J120 and J121.
Anything else I should be looking at?
Two GI strings out on the backbox, white-orange and white-violet. Continuity on the cable ok. Checked the pins on the power board, white-yellow is reading around 8VAC, but nothing on the other two. I've checked the fuses for those lines (F106 and F109) and they're okay. The same lines are out on both J120 and J121.
Anything else I should be looking at?
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I’ve a tech question with regards to the knocker on the creach - mine doesn’t seem to work when it gets a free play - it does if you flick the “ missing “ coin mech switch ?
Check adjustment A3.21 (coin meter units) - should be set to off. If not, coin switches will activate the coin meter output which can be connected to a coin meter or the knocker.
Arh that makes sense I’ll have a look later tonight - great game , stumblor it will be well worth it in the long run!
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Onto the lamp loom. This is the fun bit - where I work out whether my colour choices resemble a tasteful boudoir or the toilet bowl after an M&M marathon. You be the judge!
More fun that debugging issues eh @Gonzo ?
But... you've been played! I need some help with the lamp loom.
While moving through the lamp tests, I'm getting numerous 'doubles' showing for both row 7 and row 8.
For example, when testing 17, 18 also shows. I've checked diodes and wiring (although could have missed something) anything else I should be thinking about with lamp row issues?
More fun that debugging issues eh @Gonzo ?
But... you've been played! I need some help with the lamp loom.
While moving through the lamp tests, I'm getting numerous 'doubles' showing for both row 7 and row 8.
For example, when testing 17, 18 also shows. I've checked diodes and wiring (although could have missed something) anything else I should be thinking about with lamp row issues?
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Nice snack bar mod, have they started remaking these or did you get it from a forum member?
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Paul (@Solar Sailer) and I just squeezed into the last round, which was v3.
That is looking so good!
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Ignore me - this is the second time I've rubber ducked myself. Had red-violet and red-gray connected. They look so alike!!
That was an anticlimax I must say.
A bit like listening to one of the great symphonies live at the Royal Albert Hall. All the strings, percussion and wind instruments build into a dramatic and emotive crescendo only to finish with a wet fart sound.
On a more upbeat note . . . . it's looking very bloody sexy young man.
If you have a broken wind on your transformer can you not double up the GI strings - if you are using LEDs the current draw will be much lower.
Break wind on your transformer. 
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Break wind on your transformer.
So crazy it just might work!
(5 minutes later)
No good fellas now the workshop just smells like a dutch oven.
In all seriousness though the GI issue is fixed, it was just a newbie wiring mishap on one of the sockets (red-violet and red-grey wired in together).
I've moved onto the coils now. Power on, VUK (Sol 1) became locked immediately and blew a fuse. I checked various things all afternoon and last night found that if I check continuity between the VUK control line and the board, it registers both at F130-1 (correct) but then also at F130-8 (Sol 7 - knocker). Additionally, there is continuity back to both transistors, Q82 (correct) and Q66 (not correct). Pulled everything off and checked the transistors, and getting continuity through both Q82 and Q66 - which means they're both fried.
Can't say I'm too happy with the prospect of doing hardcore board work on a brand new Rottendog board, but at least I'm debugging like a boss.
(also big thanks to @new forest pinball who helped diagnose which in no way lessens my achievement fyi)
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Ah LED star posts. I didn't put them in CFTBL in the end. Just put them in Doctor Who instead and they do look good.Teal posts, clear rubbers and lit with cool white star post LEDs.
I might go back across my portfolio after Space Invaders has drained me of cash and the will to live and bung a few in.
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For sure, I think they give great bang for buck.
I didn't really know what to go for when I did my comet order recently, but overall really happy - particularly the post lights and the LED strips, which make a huge difference to the overall brightness of the game. Will definitely be stocking up on more of those next time.
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Back to screen printing today, this time the apron and backboard decals. I couldn't find a decent set anywhere that had all the imagery correct (universal monsters I'm looking at you) and also in the right colour, because as it turns out neon isn't easily printable. So, I'm doing it myself.
The screen:
The trial and error:
The result:
I had to do a custom ink mix to make sure it was something that was both neon, and could adhere to the vinyl stickers. And because I could, I also added a bit of glow in the dark pigment because everyone knows glowing in the dark is rad.
The stickers are also transparent, rather than the usual black, so they can more easily go onto powder coated aprons.
The screen:
The trial and error:
The result:
I had to do a custom ink mix to make sure it was something that was both neon, and could adhere to the vinyl stickers. And because I could, I also added a bit of glow in the dark pigment because everyone knows glowing in the dark is rad.
The stickers are also transparent, rather than the usual black, so they can more easily go onto powder coated aprons.
really nice work going on, is this build expensive??
