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Buying Guide: Ex-Arcade, Home or Dealer

Calimori

Staff member
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
4,231
Location
Luton, UK
Alias
Calimori
Hello, my names Calimori and I am a noob.

As a noob but fringe pinball addict, I have been watching the prices of machines rise for years. I am also unfortunate the the machine I have lusted after is a TAF which has been particularly effected by crazy prices.



Now the introduction is out of the way I wanted to ask a serious question.

When I get my head into doing something I do it usually in an extreme way so I don't have too many things to regret later. I have identified three types of sellers of machines, they may be more but I have tried to simplify.



The Ex-Arcade/pub machine/seller: This has had a hard life, maybe has been moved about a bit and the cab shows the wear of all those people playing it. It won't be pretty and will be dirty in places but it could also be very well worked on mechanically. I have spoken to two such dealers who do not so much as want to sell on their stock but realise that there is less money in a 20 year old machine on a site and a lot more in selling it.

I personally know one guy and it took a lot of pushing for him to even take the pictures and put a price on the machine. His machine will work and come with spares, plus all the mechanics were rebuilt to last as best as possible for hard use for a year so they don't have to visit site.



The Home Machine/Owner: These machines could have had little wear in the years they have been at home. They were bought for many reasons and might be being sold for just as many. They may have been lavished on, kept serviced and running perfectly or may harbour serious problems that the owner didn't know about or ignored. The person may be selling because they were told how much they go for on eBay or may be ignorant still of the crazy prices. In these cases the best you can do is talk to them about the machine and then play it.



The Other Dealer: There are people who seem to restore these machines, they might fall into the same category as the arcade/pub dealer but they seem to also be buying cheap machines, cleaning them up and selling them for big money. I don't know if they do the full overhauls that you hear the first group doing, there are certainly those who just clean up the playing field and sell them. But ultimately the prices are very high.



So as a noob, do I buy a tatty but well serviced machine from:

Group A, it has been mechanically looked after but now needs some love.

Group B, it has had less wear but could have other unknown problems.

Group C, it might well look fantastic but you will pay for it.



More importantly, should you ovoid buying from any of these groups?
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Thanks, I should have mentioned I had read the buyers guide and maybe called my thread Buying Advice for a Noob.

I first read the buyers guide before I went out to view a machine the other day, a lot of it was way over my head and I forgot even more of it when I got there. As a noob I don't have any experience with opening the machine so visual wear and condition is all I can really assess. I really just want to hear peoples experience about the good, the bad and the ugly so I can learn from other peoples experience.

I know I am going to pay over the odds for my first machine because I won't know so many things. I might just buy one and get it over with, then at least I can enjoy sorting it out and start properly learning. There is only so much you can gain from research, time to start the practical.
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Every machine i have ever owned (including my new Tron) has had multiple 'issues' when first bought. I bought my first pin(sttng) from a well known reseller who charges slightly more than the going rate, and even though at the time of purchase everything appeared fine, it wasn't long before i has some serious learning to do in order to keep it in full working order. This meant having everything at hand required to fix it. Soldering iron, solder pump, halfords socket set, various screwdrivers, pliers, snips, magnetic grab tool, wire strippers, etc...the list goes on and on...



So, fast forward a good few years and 10 machines later, what do i look for when buying another machine?



1. Playfield first and foremost. Any wear at all really puts me off as i hate looking at it whilst playing. Bare wood or cracks in it and i walk away. Buy a machine with a buggered playfield, it becomes harder to move it on when you get bored. Minor playfield wear that has been repainted doesnt bother me if its done well, but insert text wear is a bitch as the only way to fix it is using stick on decals that can interfere with the ball flow when ball speed is slow.

2. Boards in the backbox next. I tend to stay away from machines that have burnt connectors as its a dead givaway its been turned on for long periods of time. In my experience this is no big deal, but can turn into a huge time consuming mission if you unearth other issues along the way (which you will). Machines that are hard on the pop bumpers or a perticular transistor driven feature can kill said transistors which means more removing of boardsets and more soldering.

3. Display. Is it bright and clear? If not, theres a problem. I hate display issues (and fixing them) and whilst most of the time its relatively easy to fix up, it usually ends up in me buying a new display and display pcb (around £200 in total)

4. Working condition. If there are mutliple issues on startup i will quickly look at what they could be but if i detect any phantom switch (thats not opto related) or cpu errors i wont touch it. Sure, it can all be fixed, but a Totan i had once made me realise i prefer to play not spend hours or even weeks (yes, WEEKS!) fixing nightmares. Flipper rebuilds are pretty easy once you've done a few so if they need rebuilding,(weak, sticky etc..) its no big deal either.



If a machine switches on with no errors, the display is bright, playfield decent (i.e: no major wear), and the boardset in the backbox is undamaged with no burnt plugs or components i would always go for it. Everything else i am comfortable either fixing up myself or buying replacements for. Cab condition? As long as there are no major gouges, mould or swelling of the wood, im happy. Bent coin doors however i hate because sourcing new coin doors can be a pain. Legs are easy to source though. Cab fade doesnt bother me but on some machines it can look like sh*t.



Most TAFs are F*cked now. Getting a good one means you need deep pockets. I had a battered one with some nasty playfield wear, but it played amazingly and worked 100%. I got it From another well known reseller last year, and it pained me to do so, but i realised the machine was decent enough for me to play and it was super easy to move it on once i had enough of it. Some machines will always sell well no matter the condition....
 
Hi Calimori, welcome to the forum
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I agree with everything Rus has posted above, playfield, boards and display are the main things to look at IMO. In terms of the type of person your buying from I wouldn't worry about that to much (although buying from a forum or group member can be preferable) as the majority of machines will have been routed at some point in their life and even home machines can have wear etc. Judge any pin on what you see when looking at it rather than the type of person selling it.



Where abouts in the country are you as it might pay to come along to a league meeting, one of the shows (South Coast Slam is soon) or hook up with someone to have a look at their machines? There are a lot of people in this hobby who have a lot of really valuable info that can help when your not sure what your looking for
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Great information and I appreciate the sharing and advice.

I have a lot of the tools mentions from working on old VW's and can solder and clean electric, also a firm believe of buying the tool when you realise you need it so you have it next time. However, everything I have is in metric and I guess these are in imperial?



I am looking at one TAF with the bottom line of the dot matrix not working, I don't consider that will bother me too much. It also has some play hole wear but a cliffy protector would cover and protect that. The main concern is that just above the mansion the paint has slight cracking, I don't think this is caused by magnet burn and the back of the playfield looks fine. It has been in an arcade so the cab need tidying up but I don't mind doing that.



I am in Watford, Nr London so am looking to join a local league just as soon as I get myself sorted with my own machine. I can see from the members map that there are a few people localish to me.



Thanks again for the advice.
 
You may be able to fix up the display with some conductive epoxy. Its probably a broken trace on that perticular line. Fixed a real bad one recently using that trick.
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Did you have to grind the glass? I've got a display with one line intermittently out and I can't see any of the connectors to perform any kind of repair.
 
toastyhamster' date=' post: 1691700 said:
Did you have to grind the glass? I've got a display with one line intermittently out and I can't see any of the connectors to perform any kind of repair.



The connectors are sandwiched between the glass and usually break off right at the glass face, but if you carefully push conductive epoxy into the gap (making sure it touches the face of the glass and the broken piece of wire) you can get a good connection. Doesnt always work, but worth a try. no grinding needed, although could be a good idea with a dremel if you cant get a good join.
 
jonathan' date=' post: 1691701 said:
Makes me realises how lucky I was with mine!

Stop rubbing it in, You where one lucky so and so getting that lovely TAFG.

Jammy bugger.
 
Thanks for the tip Rus121 and about the matrix, that is something I can try if I buy this machine and right now it is looking the best one. Some new decals would also help so currently reading the posts on the site about that.



Jonathan: It is good to know someone is still having luck out there...
 
My first preference would be a seller who has owned the pin for a while, basically they will know any non obvious faults or quirks with the machine. Traders who flip machines after a quick check, a quick wipe and new rubbers rarely get a chance to uncover hidden faults or looming problems so there is the chance of undiscovered issues being present (just a hazard which goes with a quick transaction), buying from members of the public with little or no knowledge can be hit and miss, generally a miss as the machine will probably have a list of faults on start up and will also need a full workshop as most never remove the glass while owning, sometimes you get lucky and nab a bargain which comes up a treat after a good clean and rubbers
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Buying from an operator has it’s pros and cons, generally the machines are more expensive (don't know why), have been used as a workhorse so will have been maintained to take coin, they will generally function OK but that’s about it, other aspects of the game which do not affect coin taking will more than likely have been overlooked so expect a worn playfield, damaged plastics, cosmetic issues, a lot of dirt in hard to access areas and possibly a host of make shift repairs to keep the cash cow going “ker’chingâ€.



Next the enthusiast (that does not necessarily mean someone on a pinball group or forum)............. this is not always a smooth ride either, I purchased a T2 from a group member before xmas which turned out to be bad bet compared to the advertised machine so although you are dealing with an enthusiast/group member, it does not necessarily guarantee that you are dealing with one that views condition the same way as you do, the seller compensated for his misrepresentation which is the most you can expect post sale so no harm done........purchasing from a group or forum member can lead to a false sense of security, treating every seller with an open mind is a good way to go although there are members on here I would purchase from eyes closed as I have faith in their honesty and understanding.



So top of the list would be an honest enthusiast who has a passion for maintenance and aesthetics or a trusted seller like PH etc, these generally keep their machines in tip top shape (many post on here), and undertake work on a machine which the average Joe would not consider (complete upper playfield strip, polish and rebuild along with a good work shopping, flipper rebuilds, switch cleaning, adjustment etc etc), this kind of attention will uncover faults which may not be visible on normal inspection, (fractured ball scoops, pop bumper yolks etc) and no doubt competent repairs performed with correct parts........... buy a machine from this group of seller and you minimise the risk of downtime for a while after purchase, basically it gives you a chance to keep playing while you start learning about the machine, how it works, common faults and maintenance.



I purchase 99% of my machines unseen due to logistics and time so the above would matter less if you are inspecting in person and know what you are looking for which is the best way although even that does not guarantee a happy ending............. problems include long wasted journeys, van hire, fuel costs and even though it was working before you threw it in the van there is no guarantee that it will keep working once you get it home.



I sold a JD recently which had a top end strip when it arrived (basically a clean, new rubbers, flipper parts), it gave me zero problems in the 12 months of owning apart from a flaky trough opto board which had numerous repairs but did function. It left here working fine but after about 20 mins of intense play in the new owners home it developed a fault, a wire snapped off the kicker lane solenoid (probably due to the intense play coupled with a long journey in the back of a truck…I only put about 50-100 games on it since the strip and these were 1-2 at a time so it had an easy life while in my possession, new owner (noob) resoldered the wire but that resulted in what seemed like trough opto problems, two balls in the shooter lane etc, I supplied a new opto board courtesey and that was the last I heard although I’m not sure that solved the issue, maybe the wire was soldered on to the wrong coil tab?, who knows, my point is this………even when you cover all the bases things can and will go wrong (Russ covers this above with his thorough post).



Bottom line is expect to get your hands dirty at some point or have a fat wallet, most faults are easy to remedy but some can leave even the most seasoned techie baffled until that eureka moment (I am no techie by the way just dabble like most of us).



Praise the lord for the Internet and forums like this where there is always someone who is eager to help resolve any problems which may arise, hat tipped to ya all
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Thanks for that advice, I think it is time to make my wallet less fat and get me hands dirty.
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replicas' date=' post: 1691710 said:
Stop rubbing it in, You where one lucky so and so getting that lovely TAFG.

Jammy bugger.



I'm still paying for it though! I had the 6k saved for WOZ and now I have to find the other 2800 again!
 
OK, scrap that. I have sourced a machine. Now the horrible wait for it to be delivered.
 
Well you have balls :cool: , I played it safe on my 1st one and purchased a shopped machine from a reputable dealer although my second machine off ebay was in better condition and better value, you could always ask members for their opinion on the machine in question and problems associated with that title before you part with any hard earned dollar.
 
It balls or something like an addiction. I have followed the prices long enough, the lack of sleep was causing me a headache. I know I will never know enough before I leap in and I know the seller enough to trust his history of the machine. As said you you Dread, it might work perfectly well now but still might stop working in the delivery process.

Now I won't sleep for the next week.
 
OK, I know I am going to have to re-rubber the machine (TAF) when it arrives. Plus it is going to have a proper clean and inspection so I can catalogue what needs doings and get to know the machine.

Do I buy a rubber set from Pinball Heavens specific for the TAF, will it fit and look correct?

Also I see there is a LED light replacement, is this something worth doing, will it reduce the electricity bill?
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Calimori' date=' post: 1691736 said:
OK, I know I am going to have to re-rubber the machine (TAF) when it arrives. Plus it is going to have a proper clean and inspection so I can catalogue what needs doings and get to know the machine.

Do I buy a rubber set from Pinball Heavens specific for the TAF, will it fit and look correct?

Also I see there is a LED light replacement, is this something worth doing, will it reduce the electricity bill?
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PH does all the rubber kits.



As for LED's it is possible to spend many hours trying different combinations to get a look that you like. Different for every person. The more LED's the less heat the machine produces. Can get LED's from PH or NOFLIX from Germany or superbrights from Cointaker in the USA.
 
After a few delivery problems such as the lorry being packed with my machine going into the lorry first so there was no way it could be delivered on the right day. Then the poor delivery guys father had a heart attack and the lorry was driven back up north. Finally my TAF arrived this morning at 07:30 before I had to leave for work.

I thought I had all the dimensions sorted but sadly the door frame was not a uniformed size so the back box wouldn't fit through. :oops:

This evening, I decided to remove it and started disconnecting all the wires (after photographing them) only to realise it was maybe more of a job than I wanted to do on my first pinball machine. Realised with two people I could slide the table through the door and with the back box unbolted, carefully rotated it enough to get through.

Used the pictures to put all the connectors back on but made a little mistake that resulted in no flippers. Finally sorted it and found the mounting plate for the right flipper was broke. Opened up the table and fixed it for now with a few large washers. It is filthy in there so a good clean up over the long weekend is clearly on the agenda.



It might be dirty and has a broken part but I do like to get stuck in.
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Crikey mate, not the best start to your pinball career. Glad your sorted now though.

What I'll offer as advice for cleaning is don't cut corners, it's a false economy!!

If you think, sod it, I can't be ****d to take that bit off as it looks to much of a pita, you'll regret it. The ball will get filthy after a couple of games and drag all the **** it collected all round the bits you did clean.

Strip everything from the upper pf and clean it. Take lots of photos and if you're not confident half or quarter the machine so it's not all stripped at one time.

Clean anything that touches the ball, ie the vuk cups, the plunger tip, the ball troughs any subways under the pf. It's time consuming but if you want to keep it clean, it's a must do!

I've fully stripped about 5 pins now for cleaning and it's not so daunting now but it can be when you first do it.

Patients is the key.

Once stripped I can highly recommend the treasure cove polishing kit, it really is that good.

Hope it goes well for you and maybe post some before and after pics.



Gaz
 
I was thinking that it might need a full strip to clean it and also clean the bulbs, they are filthy too. It does look like a massive task though so I will try to take your advice.

This mounting bracket for the solinoid is not staying fixed for long though so that has to be sorted with a new part.
 
Calimori' date=' post: 1692101 said:
I was thinking that it might need a full strip to clean it and also clean the bulbs, they are filthy too. It does look like a massive task though so I will try to take your advice.

This mounting bracket for the solinoid is not staying fixed for long though so that has to be sorted with a new part.



Yeah, cleaning the bulbs and underneath of the inserts makes a huge difference.

As for the coil mounting bracket they are available from most parts suppliers but I'm sure someone on here will have one knocking about in there box of tricks if not. Probably only cost you a beer or postage.
 
Dont use the youtube advice of spraying air dusters underneath the inserts. It just spreads the muck everywhere else... I use cuetips and a bit of novus 1. Very tedious, but works a treat.
 
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