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Backlass Peeling

andy

andy

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Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
841
Location
Bristol
The backglass on my Spectrum is excellent condition except for the bottom few inches on the right, where there is a bit of paint separation and cracking, as shown in the pic.

Even when the game is not set up the backglass is in a heated, damp free environment so I don't think it will get any worse, but I want to fix down the loose paint otherwise I know I will catch it on something and it will fly off!!

What would be the best thing to use to do this? I know triple thick is always mentioned but thought this was now impossible to get?

Thanks,
Andy

Spectrum.jpg
 
I used that on mine, expensive but works great,..
Don't forget to cover all the parts that have see through glass where the points score is..
 
Nedreud said:
Yeah, it's available, just super pricey for what it is, but it's tried and tested. Somewhere on the internet is a very indepth comparison of similar products but Krylon Triple Think still considered the best. I used it on my GOLD BALL backglass which is now completely stabilised:
Click to expand...

Well I've now ordered a can so hopefully soon mine will be too! :)

The affected area is relatively small so can I just cover that area, or it best practice to cover the whole backglass?
 
I covered all of my GOLD BALL because it was peeling and cracking all over, most noticeably in the corners of the cutouts for the displays.

I'll be doing it again on my PARAGON which, like yours, is only suffering on the lower half, but will do two things differently:

  1. Use clear pallet wrap as it's wider and thicker.
  2. Get 2 friends to help. That way they can pre-stretch out a section of film at the ready between them before I spray the KTT. Then they can lower the film down keeping it taught whilst I work out the air bubbles.
Note that the KTT will slightly soften the paint so any curling bits of paint can be gently pressed flat after a few minutes. But you need to cover the KTT quickly to keep it wet as it dries quickly and gets tacky fast. Make sure to get some under the paint where it peeled at it'll help stick it back to glass which helps conceal bubbling from the front.

That's my 2c from experience!
 
If that's all the damage you've got in the above photo I'd pre-wrap a flat weight in pallet wrap (something like a tin lid with a weight on it), spray the whole glass then put the weight just over the damaged/lifted area that you want to flatten. Leave a long time, then a bit longer, then a bit longer still before taking off the weight, perhaps leave just a bit longer. The idea is you want it fully dry before peeling the wrap off the paint. You can tell by peeling up the edges when it's ready to come off.

530.jpg
 
Thanks for your advice @Nedreud and @astyy !

So even though the paint is lying flat you advise putting weight on it - I guess this is to make sure no Triple Thick gets under the paint and lifts it and then dries like that?

Is clingfilm ok to use or does pallet wrap have different adhesive properties which makes it easier to get back off?

Andy
 
Is your photo above the entire damage? If so you don't have any flaps lifting, just a couple of cracks. I don't think you need clingfilm/weights just TT it across the whole glass to protect the existing paint and perhaps dib down those cracks while it's still tacky if they're slightly raised. Also mask the displays as previously mentioned.

The objective is to avoid this, too late for TT to save it :eek::eek::eek:
i.ebayimg.com_images_g_Z2QAAOSwl9BWHvnD_s_l1600.jpg
 
andy said:
Did that go through a car wash????
Click to expand...

It was spotted on eBay for sales as a Paragon back-glass, I kept the photo for prosperity as one of my favourite eBay punts ever. (I didn't bid btw)
 
I covered my entire backglass with domestic heavy-duty cling film (see http://www.pinballinfo.com/communit...-budget-restoration.14097/page-10#post-132706). With hindsight I'd use pallet wrap next time because it's wider (you could probably get a jumbo roll wider than the backglass). I had to use 3 strip of cling-film. Pallet wrap is the same stuff just thicker. You don't need film if you've just got a bit of minor cracking and/or bubbling. The KTT will soften the paint making it flexible. I weight mine down with the super-wide playfield glass from my PARAGON. Perfectly flat so it pressed out all the imperfection. I had severe peeling so got the KTT right under the edges between glass and paint to help "stick" it back down. I also used a fresh scalpel to "pop" the worst bubbles with a tiny slit to let the air out when pressed. This is completely unnoticeable from the front but the glass now looks less "bubbly".

Also, I've left the film on the back of mine. I tried to remove it a couple of days later but it felt like it might pull the paint. Maybe it will peel off one day but it seems to have permanently combined with the KTT, which I think is good for my backglass as it's providing an additional supportive substrate. Once fitted back in the game it's impossible to tell there's KTT and film on the back. It's totally invisible. The main reason for putting the film on is to prevent the KTT from drying too fast. The KTT will get very tacky within 5 minutes and after 15 minutes is almost touch dry. Put in on really thick and gloopy and then cover immediately to stop the VOCs from evaporating. By keeping the KTT wet it'll gently soften the backglass paint thus allowing it to be pressed back down flat onto the glass.

If you're backglass is in good condition or has only the most minor cracking then just spray with KTT to provide a stabilising layer, no need for film. Just remember to mask the score windows with masking tape or frisket otherwise you will notice it!
 
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