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In Progress Zaccaria Ski Jump (EM)

Tilt light will be on when game over relay is tripped and ball count is not zero. If ball count is zero then game over relay trip lights game over light.

So what causes game over trip?
Last ball drain.
Tilt switches x 2
Switch contact on lock relay that should be open when lock relay is energised. If these contacts close then acts as a tilt switch. So check all gaps on lock relay.

Lock relay should be held in by (its own switch contact, AND the weighted switch in the cabinet, AND (the ball count unit OR a switch contact on the score motor))

Unless there's an obvious visible problem, then you really need a circuit diagram to ascertain the correct locations. I am referring to an aerobatics schematic, and assuming the generic circuitry is much the same.
 
I think its come to the end of my ability, as much as I want this game in my life I think I should have bought a fully working EM......
I think Its time I put my hat on the stand and admitted defeat...
Can anyone suggest a value to add this to a for sale thread or does any want to make me an offer ?
So so sad... :(
 
Don't do it dude, it can be fixed :thumbs: In it's current state it's only going to be worth £150 to £200 IMO so I reckon you'd be better off persevering with it for a bit longer. If your coming to NLP, find me for a chat and if you're not a crazy person then I'll come over to yours and help you with it once NLP is out of the way if you want :)
 
Please stick with it a bit longer! Loving your little vid tuts :) You don't seem like a "crazy person"... I'm sure between a @ronsplooter visit and remote debugging in the forum we can fix it! You got The Legend dropping tips on your thread here. Don't come much better than that!

Maybe you could bring it to NLP and it could be another feature of the show as we all attempt to resurrect an old pinball before the weekend is over. Like a cross between Time Team and Scrapheap Challenge :D
 
Agreed, don't give up.

You are within touching distance of getting it all working. You are certainly much closer than I am with mine. I'm also hoping to get some tips and pointers from yourself and others as you get it fully working

Cheers
Ian
 
Please stick with it a bit longer! Loving your little vid tuts :) You don't seem like a "crazy person"... I'm sure between a @ronsplooter visit and remote debugging in the forum we can fix it! You got The Legend dropping tips on your thread here. Don't come much better than that!

Maybe you could bring it to NLP and it could be another feature of the show as we all attempt to resurrect an old pinball before the weekend is over. Like a cross between Time Team and Scrapheap Challenge :D
Can I bring my EWF? Lol. It's in a few bits and pieces[emoji38]
 
Thanks for the words of encouragement guys, I think Ive well an truly fudged it up though :(
 
Saddest video ever :(

Dont give up dude ! All EM owners feel yr pain. I have had a couple of EM projects in the past and spent many head scratching hours under the bonnet and it can be very demoralising. From my limited experience it usually came down to just 1 or 2 stuck mechs/switches that fubared the whole thing ...it's just finding the buggers.

You are using this to help .....yes ?
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm

In reference to your stuck on knocker, could be an issue with the credit unit ? I think that can cause the knocker to lock - if you have been manually moving that maybe something has jammed/is fubar'd

Good luck !
 
I'd also encourage you not to throw it in; one major thing about electro-mechanical pins is that you'd have to really trying to permanently disable them. Unlike an electronic game, every component's visible and checkable with the power off - no hidden and (to me, anyway) incomprehensible software, or increasingly complex electronic hardware. Step units can be operated/advanced/reset manually, checking that any switches attached open and close as intended, or that wipers are making good contact with their circuit boards. Even the trickiest part, the motor, usually has a disconnect 'service' plug which allows it to be turned manually without starting up, helping to check its mass of switches, and units pulsed by the motor.

As the Sgt. says, some of those contacts are more important than others and can cripple the game - particularly the circuits that cut off most of the devices when not in play. In fact, that Tilt lamp could be a sign you're getting somewhere; Gottlieb EM games usually 'boot up' with the Tilt lit, and wait for a game to start before doing anything at all. Zacc games are broadly similar to Williams, though, so may not do this. AFAIR, Williams EM's had contacts on the left flipper button simply to bring up the Game Over condition after switching on.

I see the burnt-looking Hold relay secured in the On position. When EM games were more common in home use, fixing this relay On was handy. The machine could then be turned off mid game and continued later from the same point without re-starting.

Re. the knocker - EM games do often have a switch operated by the arm which advances the credit counter, wired into the circuit for the knocker coil.
 
AFAIR, Williams EM's had contacts on the left flipper button simply to bring up the Game Over condition after switching on.

Bally's do this as well. When you switch on my Fireball underneath it looks dead until you hit the left flipper button to bring it to life :)
 
The knocker is usually energised from the replay unit. ie the reel that shows how many replays you have.
Find this unit, and see if the solenoid plungers move freely and move the reel without binding. There should be two, one up one down. Then see if with power on, and knocker locked on, whether one of the coils on the replay unit is locked on. That is then the one we have to work on.
 
Sometimes forcing the scoring motor to turn can clear a transient fault. Gently push the scoring wheels to initiate a scoring motor cycle.
 
Sorry for the lack of updates guys but rest assured the project hasn't been abandoned... The Zac along with my arcade cabs have all been packed up as I'm moving house next weekend. Bad news is I don't stand a chance of getting this ready for Revival at the end of the month, good news is I have my own arcade room :)
 
Working on the assumption that the stepper is common across more than one Zacc EM (I'm sure it will be as it'd be unusual to have something like that be single game specific) then you should be able to get a replacement. You should probably stick a post up on Pinside as well as here so you're reaching the maximum audience. If I can find parts for a Zacc Robot (more on that in my shop log thread soon) then you should be able to find this :thumbs:
 
Working on the assumption that the stepper is common across more than one Zacc EM (I'm sure it will be as it'd be unusual to have something like that be single game specific) then you should be able to get a replacement. You should probably stick a post up on Pinside as well as here so you're reaching the maximum audience. If I can find parts for a Zacc Robot (more on that in my shop log thread soon) then you should be able to find this :thumbs:

Im back in the world!
Ive posted up in the Wanted section for the part I managed to trash.... I really want to get this working.....
 
If it's only the PCB that's split. Remove it, sellotape it back together on the back side, trace the tracks onto paper and make your own new one... Not hard to do, Maplins/eBay sell all the stuff you need.
 
Hmmm, not doing a reset... What happens if you manually turn the motor in the bottom of the cab with the power on? Have you actually removed the fuses to meter them? Lights for the playfield are independent of the rest of the machine so your fault is way more fundemental than that... Connectors in backwards etc... How hot does the mains tranny get if left on?
 
All fuses are good, all the connectors are keyed and in the right way, trannys not getting dangerously hot (that ive noticed)
The motor will manually fire...
Im going to ned another beer......
 
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