Complete WILLIAMS ROADSHOW Mini shop log

Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#1
Just received this roadshow as a part exchange. Been on site in Winchester for approx 20 years! Not had much use recently as all the eddy sensors were inop. ....initial observations are as follows...several flashers inop. Eddy sensors down, no bridge leds, teds eyes not moving, reds mouth stays shut....playfield absolutely filthy......it will be for sale when it's finished. Three members have dibs on it first, so thought a mini log would interest a few of you....enjoy.......no before stripped pictures unfortunately....but here it is stripped....
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Next job a clean and polish in three simple stages.....1) foam cleaner. 2). T-cut. 3). Mill wax....will apply a further wax when finished.....
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Ramps and plastics cleaned......
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#2
Both shooter rods are very worn...one has a broken sleeve, the other does not even have a sleeve. All springs and rubbers are shot......so will rebuild both.......left side.....(flying rocks).
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Right side..(skill shot/launcher).
IMG_3649.JPG Here is the parts ready to go on......nice Titan rod rubbers..red for flying rocks!....
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Here they are re-assembled, new lock down bar decals...but cannot find my insert ball's sheet!....it's among the junk somewhere?
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Few disconnected cables on the rear panel flashers, now corrected. Modded to traffic lights....(red-amber-green.).
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Next it's time to fit some side art...............
 
Likes: astyy
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#3
Right let's add some sideblades (tm ) courtesy of @PeteB . Love Pete's blades mainly for 3 reasons, although I could probably think of more! 1). Quality. 2). Designs are a bit different. (But always relate to the theme, often including a combination of backglass art and cabinet art. 3). Price. And most of all the backing is cut to size already to install, no need to trim the backing like other more expensive versions I could mention......anyway here they are........
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Easiest way we find to do it is to lift the playfield out first and position it in front of the coin door. (This is a one man job usually with a stripped playfield but I would get assistance if your game is complete!) there is room to do it in situation, but not a job for a novice.
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Then cut some lengths of insulation tape and position along the cabinet in readiness to hold the decal in place.....
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First remove the hinge bolt with an alum key. Then line it up , starting from the back of the game. Push out the small round cut out and put to one side. ( do not discard as we will use this later). Line up the hole in your art with the hole where your hinge bolt was, then line up the top edge all the way along to the flipper buttons, holding in place with the tape....... IMG_3658.JPG
Then in a similar way to cabinet decals remove a small part of the backing and fold back....
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Then just pull the backing along the length of the decal pressing it against the side of the machine as you go to remove any wrinkles or bubbles.....I find it easier to press from the top edge downwards. Repeat for both sides. Then afterwards we like to use the cut out to cover the hinge bolt afterwards.....nice.........
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Getting a bit dark already..apologies for terrible picture.....
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Next job playfield touch ups...not my forte but needs must........
 
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#4
Here is the touch ups that require attention....have a paint that nearly matches. (When you are stood up playing it will hardly notice). Needs a cliffy as well...hole worn but not to bad, seen a lot worse....first here is the playfield damage.....
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Here is a picture of the city hole, needs some cliffy post rubbers as well I think......
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As I mentioned previously, art is not my thing, I normally employ the services of my daughter Rosie for this work, but she has moved out now so.....here goes.......touched in then Mylar over the top. At least it will halt any further wear(?).......
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Here's the cliffy in place, remember you need to hammer out the posts from the underside of the playfield. Never attempt to remove them from the top!.......dark green cliffy post rubbers.......
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Now to fit new Titan dark blue rubbers, flipper rubbers and comet g.i. LED's.........
 
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#7
Hi all,
Watching avidly! Taken me 12months to even start my RS tear down...


I went for orange star posts & hoping to replace the ramp flaps with Pinbits stainless versions.

Did you remove the pop bumper Mylar?
Yes pop bumper Mylar removed...orange star posts sounds a great idea.....

Anyway back to business! Dark blue titans fitted......flippers get orange for two main flippers and mini flipper, gray for third flipper. (Titan).
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Third flipper and mini flipper.
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Time to replace the general illumination with comet LED's.......if you look closely depending on the desired light effect, three types of lamp have been utilised.
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Need to brighten up the pop bumper area as this is pretty dull in my opinion, so going to install some led bumper rings.
Will only be using budget ones this time. But how I love those extravagant ones that have LED's on both sides and one in the centre! Fabulous !
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I tend to use impact adhesive as hot glue has let me down in the past. After a few powerful pops the rings have dropped! Boo hoo........
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Talking of dark areas , the back of the playfield underneath the right ramp and behind "ted" is very dark, think my next job is to replace one of the g.i. Lamps with a nice led strip to illuminate the yellow ramp...............
 
Likes: astyy
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#9
Ok...where we we......ah yes g.i. Or the lack of it!.....so time to add an led bar at the back of the playfield we will remove one of the gi lamp holders and solder in a cut to size 6v white led bar like this....plan is to light up the right ramp and the rear of the playfield...
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The other stumbling point I have with roadshow is the "radio" toy..it's so dull! Love what @Monkeyboypaul did to his two, why has he two? Maybe ones for sell as that solid red lump of plastic is soooo terrible. Any way got to thinking, what can be done to brighten it up a bit without any artist skills. (Which as we already know I have none of!) so the easiest option to cheer it up is light. Had two ideas add extra illumination to the radio tied in with the pop bumper flasher or the yellow lamp on the radio itself.
Decided on the top lamp.so fitted this to the inside chassis of the radio........will see how it interacts when the game is back together..may change it to the pop flasher...we will see......at present when the lamp on top of the radio lights the whole radio illuminates.....got to cheer up the toy a bit!.....
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Next is the audio.....roadshow has a great soundtrack but a lot of the mid range audio is lost with the stock speakers so time to install one of our budget speaker upgrade kits...consisting of one direct fit 5.25" full range two way coaxial speaker for backbox left. One direct fit 3.5" super tweeter, for backbox right. Finally a 6.5" mod bass woofer with passive crossover for the cabinet , again direct fit....here it is....
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Real easy to install. We can use all the existing fixings to do the job , the only extras we need are some spacers, and an old post rubber!?(all will be revealed!) so let's start on the tweeter, backbox right.... IMG_3426.JPG
Remove the four screws holding the tweeter in place, and also remove the blue capacitor. (Acting as a cheap crossover). Keep the bolt that holds the capacitor in place, we will reuse that......
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Fit the replacement super tweeter with one of the old screws using one of the existing holes, then reuse the bolt from the capacitor to hold the tweeter in place. Re-solder the cables , noting polarity, black/yellow positive, black negative. Like this...
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Next back box left. Remove old speaker....and disconnect cables..place the four small spacers over the holes. (These come with the kit, it stops the existing fixings damaging the speaker plastic and lifts the speaker cone off the panel .
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Then fit the new speaker using the four original screws, remember that the spacers fit between the panel and the speaker. Also be sure to reconnect the earth strap and cables, yellow black positive, black negative. Like this.....
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Finally the woofer....remove the nuts from the four studs and lift off the old woofer, like this......
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Keep all the original fixings as we will reuse these. Now this is where our old post rubber comes into play! If you cut it with a knife into four equal pieces like this....
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You can reuse it as a spacer/insulator to lift the woofer cone off the cabinet and to stop that horrible resonance (vibrations you get with a more powerful woofer that has a wider, improved frequency range) place the four parts over the studs like this.....
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Then place the new woofer over the top and refit with the original washers and nuts...like this....
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Then reconnect by pushing the spades together like this again observing correct polarity...job done.....
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Last edited:

Monkeyboypaul

Site Supporter
May 29, 2013
3,212
1,511
113
Riccall, North Yorkshire
#12
Love what @Monkeyboypaul did to his two, why has he two? Maybe ones for sell as that solid red lump of plastic is soooo terrible.
Just happened to have a spare, so i got them both done.

Ideally i wanted 2 different styles, like a 90's generic 'made in Taiwan' black/silver version, plus a yellow/black 'building site' DeWalt option, but it didn't happen.
 
Last edited:
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#13
Hi all....bit of progress today, in between customers machines. Now as I said earlier in this thread we have eye movement problems, all roadshows do eventually if they are not regularly serviced. So red and teds eyes are supposed to have the following functions...eyes shut, eyes open, eyes wide open, eyes left and eyes right! Wow!
This one has red no eyes left and ted no eyes right....now we need to look at our solenoid/ flasher table, because what we would really love is a loose connection / dry joint on the driver pcb in the backbox. Even a driver transistor would be nice! But sadly it rarely is. Nearly always a faulty mini coil inside the head...and boy o boy is it a long winded job, particularly on ted as you need to strip a lot of stuff off the playfield top and below....so let's look at the easy stuff first..according to the table, here it is..
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Teds eyes right is driven by the brown/yellow wire at j127-5 transistor q52.
Reds eyes left. Is driven by the brown/blue wire at j127-7 transistor q48. On driver board.......here........
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Darn it! All ok...drive transistors and drive power all checkout ok..so now we have to remove the heads and have a look! Maybe it's just a wire off or a bad connection....(lol).......ok so both heads out let's have a look inside red......here we go typical a bust sw -30-1100 mini coil..fiddlesticks........
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No point faffing around trying to resolder it........was the same problem with ted...will buy a couple from pinball heaven, should be with me in a couple of days so let's put the two heads aside in a safe place for cleaning and re-assembly later.
Meanwhile let's add some super cool target decals from @flashinstinct these look great when fitted and are really high quality,
Here they are....
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Another thing that I think looks really naff is the lamps on the ramp signs, going to do the "TNT" illumination from behind the sign mod which looks great in our opinion..and what ever happens to all the rubber switch covers...a real mystery..BEFORE..
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Hers some switch covers...lovely jubbly.........
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And here it is after.....tidy.....
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Getting peckish so just enough time to fit comet leds in all the inserts....fit the pop bumper rings, connect up the radio with modded light bar and connect the additional g.i. Led bar at the rear of the playfield....phew!............real happy with the radio, looks much better glowing with the lamp.....here's a few pictures.....getting a bit dark again, think @astyy is right I need the floodlight in.........
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Likes: astyy
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#16
Quick update...took red and ted apart today only to discover the two coils which operates the eye shut mechanism are pretty much had it to.....so ordered another pair of coils today.......will log when they arrive.....
Looked at the bridge out led sign that's inoperative at the right ramp entrance..turned out to be a transistor blown , and a couple of dry joints needed correcting as below......
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Any way...removed the original damaged coils...this is where the other faulty coils are positioned, for eyes shut. Both are intermittent on red and ted so no messing in with new........
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#17
.....been a while....received the new "head" coils for the eyes shut..fitted those and the results....TED...full eye movements in test...yippee.....RED...full eye movement in test...hoorah!....but no mouth movement ........forgotten that was not working!
Powered the motor with my power supply..tested ok..so not the motor, few!....motor power ok on pcb, next check for broken/loose cables...they test ok, so the fault must be with the motor control pcb under the playfield. This board controls the mouth of both red and ted...let's take a look at it.....here it is can you see the problem? (Probably not with my photo skills)
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Broken leg on one of the resistors...re-soldered and now fully working.......
Next problem is the "hidden" standup target below the left upper flipper...need that working really as it's multi functional, advances modes, jackpots etc. Best way to hit this is let the ball roll out of the lock shot, don't flip, let the ball roll onto the target
Lovely.......anyway it's not working so let's take a look at it....unbolt the two bolts that hold it in underneath the playfield , pull it out and take a look.....
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No dramas fortunately, dry joint on the diode connection to the switch now sorted...noice!
Nearly finished...just got to test the flippers and see what we need to do with those....a job for tomorrow......
 

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Jan 12, 2019
12
9
3
Pembrokeshire
#18
Nice work!
I just put LED’s in mine with premium 2’s and found the white pop bumper way too bright in a darkened room so put a red one in instead and prefer it, what are those white ring ones like because the white bumper is in your face when playing?
 
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new forest pinball
Oct 27, 2015
878
823
93
brockenhurst hampshire
#19
Few jobs left on this before we move it on......
Flipper coils are ok but the sleeves and stops have seen better days...so the plan is to do a bit of an old school op's job on it, or a partial partial rebuild of you like.....we will strip the flipper mechs clean them and replace the coil sleeves and the stops...
Here's the old ones next to some new ones......
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Now if your memory is anything like mine, I advise you to strip one at a time. Otherwise you are likely to forget which coil is for the left flipper and which is the right! But do not fear , a quick glance at the wiring diagram for the flippers reveals that yellow/green, orange/green for the right flipper coil and yellow/blue , orange/blue for the left flipper..phew that's a relief!
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Then the same procedure for the other two left flippers. Another curious thing about this machine was it had no tilt bob? I found the wing nut in the back of the cabinet but no bob(weight). So that's my final job I think, until I play it and see if it all works ok...
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Wow! Forgot how much fun this game is!.....plays, looks and sounds great!.....going to have a few games on it now, as I need the practice for the up and coming robot bash! @robotgreg Been spending more time fixing these than playing them in recent years in my opinion....and I sure need the practice!.........? Here it is....
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