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W20 switch problem

Pie Man

Pie Man

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Joined
Apr 16, 2016
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Blackburn
I have just fitted a new switch ( 58 ) on my W20 but it’s still showing a fault ( open ) I haven’t fitted a new resistor, just used the existing one, could this be the problem. If so how do I test it? and where can I buy one from.
Thankyou.
 
Hi there. Have you checked the spec of the new switch? Sometime the normally open and normally closed positions can vary. Pop your multimeter on the tabs of both you old one and new one- could help work out if they’re the same or not.

Also I assume you mean you replaced the diode? Not aware of resistors on the switch. Make sure your new diode (IN4004) is the right way around (non banded side hooks up to white wires normally).

Others with more experience may have addition suggestions.
Mike
 
it’s a diode not a resistor. you can test it with a multimeter if you have one. most multimeters have a diode test setting. a diode only lets electricity flow one way. desolder one end of it to test it. that ensures you are testing the diode and nothing else that might be in the circuit.

your symptom of the switch always being open suggests the circuit is not being made. so a possible cause is the diode isn’t conducting electricity at all. of course it could be a faulty switch or it could be a loose wire elsewhere in the circuit




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In switch test simply short the two switch wires together. This will confirm whether or not the switch wiring is connected into the switch matrix. If it is, then it’s local to the switch or diode , if it’s not seen, then there’s a break in the circuitry.
 
Ok I have linked the two wires together ( green and white) still not showing closed in test. Any suggestions
pinballmania said:
In switch test simply short the two switch wires together. This will confirm whether or not the switch wiring is connected into the switch matrix. If it is, then it’s local to the switch or diode , if it’s not seen, then there’s a break in the circuitry.
Click to expand...
 
As Andy suggests - that result points to a wire problem. Either a break in the wires, or dodgy connector.

If you’re brave enough, you could simulate the switch activation at the connector end with a small jump wire between the two pins.

If that works I’d say you have a problem with those wires from connector to switch
 
The wires are daisy chained from switch to switch. So next step is to closely examine and test each of the switches in the same row and same column as the errant switch. A break in wiring at any of the upstream switches will cause all those downstream to stop working.
 
pinballmania said:
The wires are daisy chained from switch to switch. So next step is to closely examine and test each of the switches in the same row and same column as the errant switch. A break in wiring at any of the upstream switches will cause all those downstream to stop working.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah... Thanks for clearing that up Andy!
 
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