Vector display problem

stevebm1

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May 26, 2014
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I run mine at about +170V,Ive found on my vector if I have it any lower then the player 4 display,starts acting goofy,but anything 170V or above it's fine
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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That's helpful. It answered the question about what parts to replace: all of them.
 

astyy

Play Flipper Games for Fun and Recreation
Jan 19, 2015
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Vector has 6 displays to contend with, the one in the playfield is daisy chained too off the last bb display by an inline connector.
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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Right so Andy provided me with the replacement transistors. Tick.
I have started looking into how I will do the replacement.
Two transistors seem fairly straight forward. That's the 2N3440.
For the third (2N3584) I have a replacement part bux85g. The problem is that it isn't a like for like replacement. The 2N3584 it replaces has two legs. The bux85g has three.
Andy mentioned videos showing how to do the replacement on the internet. I can't find them.
Any idea on how to do it?
Thank you
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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Alright so tonight i replaced the transistors (x3) in the HV section of the board. I had checked all the resistors a couple of days back with the board off and they all, bar one which was 10% out, were spot on. I even checked the variable resistor and it was spot on too.
So I was full of confidence when i replaced the board back in the backbox. Turned it on and................................................... nothing new.
Still some occasional numbers on the displays and that's it. I checked TP2 again and it is still at 138V..... sad face.:(:(:(

Now I remember Andy saying that i ought to replace the big capacitor too. I can do that but that won't alter the voltage, will it?

After the capacitor, i could look at the one resistor that seemed to be slightly out. That would affect the voltage, wouldn't it?

After the resistor, what is my next point of call???
 

Vimtoman

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Sep 29, 2018
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Take the fuse out and see if the 190vdc comes up off load.
If not
Change caps in HV section
If it does
Check R34 is still 100K and check VR1 has 110v across it.
then its looking for a leaking MPS-A42 segment Transistors
If that fails
Then it could be a display issue.
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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So I took the fuse out and I am still reading 139vDC. I'll take your advice and replace the capacitor.
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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Next problem: where do i get a capacitor like this from?
I think it is the C26, 160uF, 350V, part No E-00586-0059. I can't find it on pinparts.co.uk and the website says they are closed until April anyway.
I can find it on Marco speciality website and on pinball.center but by the time i have paid tax and postage, i am in for 50 euros/dollars. Which is dear for a capacitor.
Anywhere in the UK where i can get one for less?
 

astyy

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No probs the filtering on RS -Online is a really good, for example at 150uF rated up to 400V+ there are 127 to choose from ?:thumbs:
They are mainly snap on terminal type at this larger size, so you'll be wiring them like Vid where he replaced an old radial type.
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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New capacitors arrived today. I replaced both tonight. Full of hopes.
Turned it on. And still the same.
Arghhhhhh pulling my hair now.
And I don't even have any.
Any other suggestion? I am going to read the link on pinside to see what he suggests.
 

stevebm1

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May 26, 2014
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have you replaced every component in the hv section?,when I rebuild them,I tend to do the lot for good measure
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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Well I am slowly working my way through all of them. So far transistors and capacitors have been replaced.
I checked the resistors and all bar one which was slightly low seemed ok.
The input voltage is right. But the output isn't. So it has got to be one of the components. I'll have a look today at what I haven't replaced.
Maybe I should also check continuity of all tracks in this area...
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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A quick review shows that I haven't yet replaced c27/c28. Two small capacitors in the path between tp4 and r55. I think my plan will be tonight to:
  • check voltage from bottom of R55 to TP4 (should read 230V i presume)
  • check tracks on the board between all components
  • replace C27/c28 (i need to source them first!)
What is the significance of the 193VDC directly under Q22 on the diagram above? I presume this means that the voltage should be 193VDC at this point. I'll try to locate this on the board too and see what i get voltage wise.
 

Vimtoman

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Sep 29, 2018
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A quick review shows that I haven't yet replaced c27/c28. Two small capacitors in the path between tp4 and r55. I think my plan will be tonight to:
  • check voltage from bottom of R55 to TP4 (should read 230V i presume)
  • check tracks on the board between all components
  • replace C27/c28 (i need to source them first!)
What is the significance of the 193VDC directly under Q22 on the diagram above? I presume this means that the voltage should be 193VDC at this point. I'll try to locate this on the board too and see what i get voltage wise.
It would have to be a long answer to explain that and yes it should be that voltage .
The circuit is just a DC regulator circuit.

You should really change the transistors in that circuit.

You mentioned that one resistor was not correct in value. Which one was it.

Also the bridge rectifier supplying this circuit. Might be a good idea to check that also.
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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Thank you for all the time spent trying to help me out here. i really appreciate it.
I have already replaced the three transistors in this area of the board (Q21, Q22 and Q23).
And i seem to remember it was R35 at 90k instead of 100k (i will need to check but i am at work).
I'll have a look at the bridge rectifier that supplies the circuit. Thank you.
 

carl lawrence

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Jul 31, 2011
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On sol board what is your readings on J3 pin 6 should be 230v if it is check the cr21 diode what is the reading on the leg at the bottom of the diode and the leg above the diode ? .on my SI I am getting 160v below and above 234v and yes with the game on sorry .
Ps be careful !!
Not a clue at the moment just Scratching my head now !
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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I eventually got to check those voltages.
Bottom of r55 to tp4 is 234v.
I checked all tracks on the board and they are all ok.
I checked the voltage to ground on either side of r51 and i get 234v on one side and 135v on the other. Knowing that I have already replaced q22, shall I replace c27?
 
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domlouis

domlouis

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May 28, 2014
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Replaced c27..No change.

I checked the bridge rectifier on the power board feeding the circuit with my fluke meter set on diode. I get no reading in one direction and a continuous beep (But no reading) in the other direction on each diode. Is that normal?

I then checked the diode in the HV section. On cr21 diode I get the same result: no reading in one direction and a continuous beep in the opposite direction. On vr1 I get a slightly different outcome: no reading in one direction and then a continuous beep and reading (0.5) on the meter. Again does it make sense?

My trolling of YouTube videos meant that I was expecting a reading on the diode to be between 400 and 600 in one direction and no reading in the opposite direction. I am not quite getting this.... any words of wisdom?