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Total Nuclear Anhililation

The guy on pinside. Spooky don’t do them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Out of stock at Mezel, ordered through Flash's Pinside shop, nice and easy process, refreshing to have cheap postage from the US too just $3, (Color DMD charge $60 shipping for a set of standoffs :oops:)
 
Take your time applying them, and make sure you put them the right way up! They take about a week to arrive and straight through your letterbox, no customs charges or anything. From Canada, not the US :thumbs:
 
Not a great score but finally got 5 Reactors :D. Coincided with me lowering the power of the flippers.

Has anyone got a fix for the vibrating glass besides using electrical tape on the edges? I've turned the bass down a little but don't want to lose it too much. The glass isn't a great fit in this game and can be moved up/down/left/right with the lockdown bar fitted which does help a little with the vibration if you get it in a sweet spot.

78871
 
There's a small amp which you can see/reach through the coin door. It is the button nearest you. It is very sensitive so you only need to turn it a fraction.
 
The buttons on it are, from nearest to the coin door going backwards:

Subwoofer
X-Over *Can anyone explain what this does?
Treble - Backbox speakers
Bass - Backbox speakers
Volume - Backbox speakers

Apologies for the out of focus pictures. Think I took them reaching my phone in through the coin door a while ago.

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the other way to adjust the volume is on the buttons that control the screen.
 
the other way to adjust the volume is on the buttons that control the screen.

Followed this advice that Scott posted on Pinside. The biggest difference is the volume setting behind the screen. Mine was set to 50 so have lowered it to 11 as suggested. This explains why my subwoofer adjustment was so sensitive. Now it has much more space to tailor it to my preference:

"I do not recommend screwing with your amp settings...... ....but.....
If your amp settings get screwed up, this is what I would do. Do this at your own risk as this has the potential to damage your amp and/or speakers if set too high. But please do not do this unless your amp settings get totally out of wack. Warning, this setup procedure is going to be loud, so warn the people around you.
Step 1: With the game on, take the backglass out and press the volume up or down button on the back of the LCD and bring the pre-amp volume down to 11. It will show on the screen. This is probably set high from the factory, but I found reducing this made the audio quality slightly better.
Step 2: Put the backglass back in.
Step 3: Turn every knob on your amp all the way down until it stops.
Step 4: Go to Music Test in the service menu and select reactor 3 by pressing the start button a few times.
Step 5: On the coin door, press the volume up button until it reaches 11.
Step 6: On the amp, turn the second knob from the left (sub crossover) up about 1/8 turn.
Step 7: On the amp, turn the treble just past half way up.
Step 8: On the amp turn the Bass knob up about 1/8 turn. Keep this low as this is controlling the bass output to the upper speakers and could damage them or the amp if set too high.
Here is where it is going to get loud...
Step 9: On the amp, turn up the sub volume very slowly until just before you hear a bit of distortion. This will be pretty loud.
Step 10: On the amp, turn up the Volume knob slowly until before you hear distortion or you feel that is the loudest you would ever have the machine. This is also the time where adjusting the treble up or down should be done.
Important note! If the amp cuts out during any of these last 2 steps, you went too high with the volume and/or Bass knob. Bring these back down so the amp does not cut out as this could damage it.
Step 11: On the coin door, turn down the volume back to a reasonable level and enjoy.
Again, please do this at your own risk. You can damage your amp and/or speakers messing with this stuff. I am not an expert audiophile or whatever it is called, I am just knowledgeable enough to be dangerous here. Don't blame me or Charlie if you break something.
Let me know if anyone has any better suggestions.
--Scott"

Also adjusted my screen whilst I had the backglass off:

Contrast 90
Brightness 35
Gamma on

Much better now.
 
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Checked my star posts today, and every post with a clear (Amazon) washer fitted underneath has disintegrated. I only checked as someone on pinside mentioned it. It’s possible I overtightened them, but worth checking if you have them too.
My playfield is fine, but this whole saga continues to be a PITA.
 
There's a small amp which you can see/reach through the coin door. It is the button nearest you. It is very sensitive so you only need to turn it a fraction.

I am suprised I haven't seen any in the U.K. that upgraded to the ones that go up to 11.
 
Checked my star posts today, and every post with a clear (Amazon) washer fitted underneath has disintegrated. I only checked as someone on pinside mentioned it. It’s possible I overtightened them, but worth checking if you have them too.
My playfield is fine, but this whole saga continues to be a PITA.
I've got those washers but my star posts appear to be fine.
 
Keep an eye on them. Maybe I just overtightened mine.
Will do. I've had a close look with a torch and maybe there is something happening on some of them but I guess it won't be an issue until they start to fall apart?

With the amount of people reporting it, it seems more than a coincidence.
 
I know zero about this issue. If overtightening is a problem, why not use thteadlock ?

I don't mean the super glue that William's used in the late System 11s and early WPCs. You can get mega thread lock. You can also get a leas permanent type.
 
Checked my star posts today, and every post with a clear (Amazon) washer fitted underneath has disintegrated. I only checked as someone on pinside mentioned it. It’s possible I overtightened them, but worth checking if you have them too.
My playfield is fine, but this whole saga continues to be a PITA.

Have you raised it with them?
 
I know zero about this issue. If overtightening is a problem, why not use thteadlock ?

I don't mean the super glue that William's used in the late System 11s and early WPCs. You can get mega thread lock. You can also get a leas permanent type.

The problem is the playfield.
 
Have you raised it with them?

Not yet, I only saw them last night so need to get them out and photograph them. I guess there will be some comments about using the black ones that they supplied, versus the clear ones from amazon. But as I only received 4 of the black ones I think, I have used a combination. The other question is should I be going direct to them or to @philpalmer ?
 
It’s like the 1980’s wrapped up in one epic sound pounding , light show monster of a game
 
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