In Progress The Phantom Of The Opera Mini Shop Log

DRD

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I had an issue like this with my whirly. The trough switches "worked" but did not always release properly, so the game thought three balls were in the trough when there were only two

Might your trough switches be slow to release, or catching on something ?

Sorry if a daft question, but have you put too many balls in ?

For the oxidisation. Might T cut help ?
 
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RudeDogg1

RudeDogg1

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I had an issue like this with my whirly. The trough switches "worked" but did not always release properly, so the game thought three balls were in the trough when there were only two

Might your trough switches be slow to release, or catching on something ?

Sorry if a daft question, but have you put too many balls in ?

For the oxidisation. Might T cut help ?
4 is the correct amount of balls. I will have a look at the switches tonight.

What oxidisation?
 

DRD

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The ageing of the paint on the wireforms.

It is years since I played a phantom, but isn't it a three ball multi-ball ?
 

DRD

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The vid shows that your game is insistent on kicking balls out until just two are left in the trough.

I had a similar issue on my Centaur. Just looking at the trough and switches, I put more in than the game actually needed.
 

James

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Sorry for the stupid question but why doesn’t the ball feed into the loaded position straight after firing the previous one!? Does this game have locks? What happens when a ball is locked?
 
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RudeDogg1

RudeDogg1

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So yeah the ball issue was me being a gorm it’s a 3 ball. Also fixed the trough arm so that’s working properly. Fixed w few iffy switches. The only remaining probs I have left is the right VUK had a iffy switch which I’ve adjusted. But it seems to fire for a second time when it kicks a ball out for some reason any ideas?

And I can’t figure out what is wrong with the right pop bumper switch stack (I’m sure it’s the one I replaced due to snapped leaves). Which I wired the same as the old one. The switch that is activated by the yoke activates but the spoon one does nothing.

Does this look right?



Also I don’t know if it’s connected but when I run the switch test that shows closed switches it’s showing some kinda glitch as if there is some switch that’s having a spaz. Whatever it is it ends in a Y but none of the switch names end in a Y that I can see

 
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RudeDogg1

RudeDogg1

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In theory it should work because I connected it as I disconnected each wire from the old one. Wires are different colours on the other ones I think so not sure if that would be much help. I’ll have another look tonight I’m crap at electrical fault finding
 

DRD

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If you look at the 2 pop bumper leaf switches (in the photo) that are triggered by the fibre yokes, one looks normally open - the other looks normally closed.

This looks wrong
 
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RudeDogg1

RudeDogg1

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If you look at the 2 pop bumper leaf switches (in the photo) that are triggered by the fibre yokes, one looks normally open - the other looks normally closed.

This looks wrong
both are open as are the other 2 stacks.

the wiring matches the other 2 stacks. Have continuity to the leaf the cream wires go to but the orange onne i dont get continuity wich i assume is because there are resistors so Im stumped again. I did wander if the cap is duff even tho its a new switch
 

Moonraker

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Yes, that is a much better picture and is wired correctly.

Put it back in the game. The switches should be open. Press on the Pop bumper skirt to check that the switch is made, if not then adjust as necessary. Then move the Pop Bumper ring down to check that the second switch is made.
 
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DRD

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When you have got it going, could you take it to a show ? It is about 25 years since I last played one of these
 
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RudeDogg1

RudeDogg1

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Continuity test the switch. Pull the connectors on the ppb and short the relevant pins to see if it's a board fault.
The other 2 switches that come before it in the chain work so don’t think it’s a board fault. I’ve got continuity where the cream wires connect but can’t get continuity where the orange wires connect but I believe that’s because there are resistors in line. Which is why I suspected the cap but I dunno
 

Moonraker

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Put 1 lead on orange, the other lead on cream. You should have continuity when the switch is closed as that shorts out the resistor and capacitor.

It can be a board fault as each switch is a single point. The switches in the chain work (say they are the row) but you're missing the return (through the column). Your problem is most likely to be a connector issue of some sort.
 
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RudeDogg1

RudeDogg1

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Put 1 lead on orange, the other lead on cream. You should have continuity when the switch is closed as that shorts out the resistor and capacitor.

It can be a board fault as each switch is a single point. The switches in the chain work (say they are the row) but you're missing the return (through the column). Your problem is most likely to be a connector issue of some sort.
Cheers peter I’ll have a look when I get home
 

astyy

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If that's the right bumper (on the white/grey row wire) you'd hardly notice if the row is out as the only other switch is the "feature" on the right flipper the other positions are N/U.