Is there anyone with a phantom that would be kind enough to take a pictures of the underside of the organ flashers so I can see what colour wire goes where. And one of the connector so I can see the same TIA
Oh I didn’t think of looking in there. That’s not the right ones tho it’s the 2 that are on top of the organ they have been totally cut off. Annoys me when people do that when it could of just been unplugged
All the mechs are now rebuilt apart from the organ motor as I’m waiting for a new switch due to the wrong one being fitted which was fouling the arm.
All the pop bumper light sockets were very worn so I bought a set of the lamp holder with cable legs thinking they would be a suitable replacement. I was wrong the wire is way to thick I would of had to drill the holes out. They also didn’t sit right. So instead I decided to replace only the contacts. I cut open the new connectors removed the contacts, removed the wire and added the correct thickness. Added to the old sockets and put a blob of hot glue on the base incase the connectors decide to move
Does anyone know of a source of decent thickness mylar? Last lot I managed to get was really thin which to me seems abit useless. Ive applied a new magic mirror decal which is supposidle ultra tough. I dont buy that tho it scratched just getting air bubbles out. So I thought it may be worth covering it with mylar
I thought it might of been because the new fibre yokes come to a point rather than a flat edge like the old ones. But I’m sure they were catching before the rebuild. I’ll see if anyone else chimes in otherwise I’ll give them a flat edge
Could be, in your first video of original the scoring switch never seems to open. POTM uses old B/W pop switch stack, unlike later games like Hook, saying that the original yokes on my Hook were flat - I think you can guess which from this pic vs new from Andy
According to the pinrepair guide, POTM is Rev 2b, the next game BTTF is Rev 3 which introduced special coils including pops are cpu controlled = only the trigger spoon switch on the stack, no second switch like yours. (This explains why POTO needs those extra fuses back right of the backbox).
Can the switch stack adjust back slightly keeping the activation pin centred on the spoon?
It’s ok Steve I don’t need anymore spares Daz sorted me out and I’ve ordered the u shaped ball guide. I just can’t rem how the organ arm connects. I’m sure it connects to the back of the motor arm and the spring goes on the front one just not 100% sure