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TFTC Weak Flippers and the SSFB

Dex-Jay

Site Supporter
Joined
Nov 20, 2016
Messages
1,612
Location
Midlands
Alias
Richard
Hi all, I've tried almost everything I can think of to cure this fault that was there when I bought my Tales From The Crypt (2 years ago) to no avail! I've searched all the threads I could Google and I'm no closer to curing it. The 2 lower flippers "can" work fine and have plenty of power and other times it seems like they have nowhere near enough power to move.

So far I've replaced everything associated with the flippers - bats, linkages, coils, EOS switches and they move without binding so it's not a physical fault.
On the DE - Solid State Flipper Board (SSFB) I thought I found the culprits the other day when I discovered one cracked fuse holder and one that had a dodgy repair. I replaced all 10 fuse holders with no improvement. All pins on the connectors to the board (CN1 & CN2) I've reflowed. Transistor soldering I've reflowed at SR1, SR2, SR3 the Q2,Q3, Q9 & Q10. I can't see any other suspect cold solder joints on the SSFB either.

Apart from me replacing the 9 transistors on the SSFB or ordering a Rottendog one I really am out of ideas. Anyone suggest anything? Ta!
 
Looking at ordering some new cabinet switches from Marco, the right one is a double-stacked-job, were it not I'd probably try modern Stern types. I've had suggested a bad ground somewhere. Having pulled both the CPU board and the PPB board I did notice that half of the PCB machine head screws were missing. This being the board earths so I'd better replace the missing ones. No sign of cold joints on those 2 boards. I'm hoping to find something obvious on the power supply board when I have a look at that tomorrow. Tweaked the new EOS switches and that made no difference either so it's nothing to do with those. Whatever the problem is it effects the power of both lower flippers and intermittently too, one second loads of power the next like they're about to seize up.
 
Replaced the cabinet flipper switches with the new Stern type and no change. Where should I be looking next? Power supply issue or could it still be something wrong with the SSFB?
 
Clays guide describes the newer 3-flipper SSFB #520-5076-00 as being backwardly compatible. This was used in several later machines perhaps you could borrow one to swap out and eliminate in your t/shooting.
 
Hmm, worn flipper buttons perhaps?
Replaced the buttons and the switches, no change. Is it worth me measuring voltage at the coils when playing?

Clays guide describes the newer 3-flipper SSFB #520-5076-00 as being backwardly compatible. This was used in several later machines perhaps you could borrow one to swap out and eliminate in your t/shooting.
Borrowing a board would be a plan so I can eliminate that board at least.

I think some pictures would be beneficial.
Anything in particular you want to see?
 
Here's a couple of pictures. While I'm not expert with PCB's (or anything much!) I can't see anything obviously wrong. All the connector pins are there, no signs of anything burnt. Nothing bodged, I just replaced the fuse holders. All the legs on the transistors look intact.

7903579036
 
So you actually tested the resistor or just read the colours? I can see it says 2.2m.
 
I just read the colours and presumed it was correct, should I measure it then? I'll remove it and measure it later.
 
I've just pulled the resisitor and tested it out of circuit and it was 2.25 Meg so within tolerances. The coils were set to medium, tried strong with no change, still went limp and crappy from strong a few seconds later.

When they are behaving weak are the coils hot?

Coil temperature, dunno - I'll have to check. The misbehaving starts from the 1st game so it's not like it's been on any period of time, you know?
 
What type of end of stroke switch do you have installed ?

If the contact is not 100% then the flippers will not flip at full power.

To prove one way or the other short the wires to the end of stroke switch on one of the flippers. If power is restored then the eos is either the wrong material or not properly set.

You won’t cause any damage by shorting the eos switch.
 
That was my next suggestion short it and press the button quickly.
 
My EOS switches were those that came in a complete rebuild kit from Marco. Having briefly tried measuring voltage once the flippers had flipped, if I hold the button on the voltage was about 14.5V.

So to bypass the EOS I just jumper here?

79177

Here's a pic of the EOS switches.

7917879179
 
While using the flipper? Where should I measure? I've never done quite this much troubleshooting with a pinball before so do bear with me....
 
There will be a few videos on youtube have a google.
 
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