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Complete TAF

Little update.

So I’m mainly prepping the playfield for the swap. It’s a restored one from Chris Platt.

Firstly I have probably spent 4-6 hours purely cleaning the polishing compound out of all the nooks and crannies. A real royal pita. There is still lots of residue but life’s too short.
I then did the full 3 stage treasure cove treatment on it and although it looked like glass it felt Matt in areas when you ran your hand over it.
It now feels like glass too.

Then came the realisation that 4 or 5 post holes had been filled and painted during the restoration process. It was a nerve racking experience trying to find them and re drill the playfield.

Secondly due to the amount of clear coat, all the counter sunk holes and pop bumper holes (among others) were now clogged and needed to be filed out. The chair kick out had been rebuilt however was now thicker than before so the cliffy wouldn’t fit. A fair amount of fettling was required to get it to sit flush.

In all, many many hours have been spent getting the playfield ready for repopulation. Probably about 16 hours or more.

If you’re using a restored playfield, don’t expect it to work out of the box, that’s all I’ll say. You’ve got to weigh up the pros and cons. If the above work doesn’t sound like something you want to get involved with, consider spending another £500 and have a CPR shipped to your door.

0703FA66-62AD-408A-A8D5-1B53EE56C8EE.jpeg1C5D6834-8B47-47BC-9D54-869EDBD766C1.jpeg6B6BFADE-C1CB-4336-A5AD-F59E4772BA38.jpegC8345944-4989-494F-928F-7458F51FF38F.jpegA5ECFDFD-6414-4153-84AB-5B7CD9C128E2.jpeg

The green circles Show which holes were missing.

However the pain barrier is now broken and i’m on with it.

Please if anyone has a ball trough metal
Guide can you get in touch. @replicas did find one but he’s put it somewhere safe!! Working on the premise he won’t find it before I need it, does anyone else have one so I can get this build finished.

I also need a ball eject mechanism too.

Thanks all, until next time.....
 
wouldn't disagree with any of that...unfortunately most metal work is dragged out leaving large holes and clear has to be that thick just to get past the decals as well as other issues ..its getting there and looking good though :)
 
wouldn't disagree with any of that...unfortunately most metal work is dragged out leaving large holes and clear has to be that thick just to get past the decals as well as other issues ..its getting there and looking good though :)

Thanks Chris. It occurred to me that the post may seem like a moan!! It isn’t. I’m really pleased with the playfield and these things seem daunting at first, especially as I’ve never done a swap before, but one job at a time and before you know it it’s done and you wonder what you ever worried about.
 
Little update.

So I’m mainly prepping the playfield for the swap. It’s a restored one from Chris Platt.

Firstly I have probably spent 4-6 hours purely cleaning the polishing compound out of all the nooks and crannies. A real royal pita. There is still lots of residue but life’s too short.
I then did the full 3 stage treasure cove treatment on it and although it looked like glass it felt Matt in areas when you ran your hand over it.
It now feels like glass too.

Then came the realisation that 4 or 5 post holes had been filled and painted during the restoration process. It was a nerve racking experience trying to find them and re drill the playfield.

Secondly due to the amount of clear coat, all the counter sunk holes and pop bumper holes (among others) were now clogged and needed to be filed out. The chair kick out had been rebuilt however was now thicker than before so the cliffy wouldn’t fit. A fair amount of fettling was required to get it to sit flush.

In all, many many hours have been spent getting the playfield ready for repopulation. Probably about 16 hours or more.

If you’re using a restored playfield, don’t expect it to work out of the box, that’s all I’ll say. You’ve got to weigh up the pros and cons. If the above work doesn’t sound like something you want to get involved with, consider spending another £500 and have a CPR shipped to your door.

View attachment 72553View attachment 72554View attachment 72555View attachment 72556View attachment 72558

The green circles Show which holes were missing.

However the pain barrier is now broken and i’m on with it.

Please if anyone has a ball trough metal
Guide can you get in touch. @replicas did find one but he’s put it somewhere safe!! Working on the premise he won’t find it before I need it, does anyone else have one so I can get this build finished.

I also need a ball eject mechanism too.

Thanks all, until next time.....

Believe me cpr playfield are far from perfect I had to drill may holes out of mine
 
I bought a CPR fathom playfield. There is loads of work to do before you can use the damned thing

Playfield swaps are a massive job. They are a massive job squared when you have to remove varnish from drilled holes, and indeed drill your own holes when CPR missed them
 
Drilling holes on a brand new repro playfield is out of order surely? You're going to be wiping out whatever warranty you would've had on top of doing something that has the potential to cause damage.
 
Really close now. Underside more or less done. Just need to put thing in but I need it off the rotisserie for that. Then just the top side.

A small disaster. Whilst installing the metal ramp next to the swamp, it got jammed and I scratched the playfield above the shooter lane whisky wrestling with it.:mad: Then whilst trying to get the scratches out I had a Novus explosion :rofl:
You know when the nozzle gets blocked and you think “I’ll just squeeze the bottle a bit harder and it’ll be fine”!!!! Nope

The end is in sight. Thank god!!

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Great work Gaz.
Interesting coil wrappers on the pops.........
I have looked high and low for the bits for your trough and no luck. What I did find is the metal switch cover for the top of the main ramp you were looking for.
So I will send you that buddy.
D.
 
Legend Daz. Thanks mate. I’ve filed down the bits I have so hopefully they’ll be ok for now. If you find them in the mean time!!

The coil wrappers were all I could find on pinball rebel. Ideally they’d have the logo on them. Still, at least they’re fresh and green! Beats what was there before. I still need to replace the other colours when I get some coloured paper.
 
Legend Daz. Thanks mate. I’ve filed down the bits I have so hopefully they’ll be ok for now. If you find them in the mean time!!

The coil wrappers were all I could find on pinball rebel. Ideally they’d have the logo on them. Still, at least they’re fresh and green! Beats what was there before. I still need to replace the other colours when I get some coloured paper.


You know if you click on the wrapper you want and then when it’s loaded click in url bar at the top of the screen, delete the bit that says _text.pdf and replace it with .pdf you will get the same wrappers only with the logos?

Ie if you want ae-26-1200

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Wrappers/Coil_Williams_AE-26-1200_text.pdf

Delete the _text giving you

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Wrappers/Coil_Williams_AE-26-1200.pdf

And hit return

(It won’t let you link to it, so link above won’t work) you need to edit the url
 
Legend Daz. Thanks mate. I’ve filed down the bits I have so hopefully they’ll be ok for now. If you find them in the mean time!!

The coil wrappers were all I could find on pinball rebel. Ideally they’d have the logo on them. Still, at least they’re fresh and green! Beats what was there before. I still need to replace the other colours when I get some coloured paper.

Let me know what wrappers you need and what colour u need and I'll print em for you save you buying the paper. Just cover the postage
 
Done. Only took 9 months!!
Still can’t play it though as it needs a board repair. But considering it was me who took it to bits and reassembled it there were no errors on start up.
One bulb needed tweaking. And of course it was the pop under the ramp ???. Which was an absolute screaming **** of a job to fit the first time. Lots of dremelling was required.

I’m not in a hurry to do that again, I can tell ya.

All pins go in to storage next week due to house extension so won’t even be able to play it for another 3-4 months ?.

Call this one closed then. It’s been emotional

L1E759AC2-5CCB-4F49-A119-38F93DB3A889.jpeg54F20BC7-DAA9-4926-9261-C9B6B763277E.jpeg45FFFE87-D4DB-4C37-B2B9-7E957066FB1B.jpeg705882C5-5769-49DB-B4DB-1833C222A859.jpegF73577D0-C62F-46A9-8400-C8D529ED0311.jpegD9578921-D0EF-4DEA-8B29-1D43C9FE416E.jpeg97B3E5F4-BA2A-42B9-BB34-BF418C233F70.jpegAEFA918F-7262-47FA-B03E-05622E3F14A4.jpeg
 
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Very nice. Light green rubbers are a nice touch, not seen that before, as is the colour matched post silicone.

Why is the pop bumper under the ramp a problem and why did it need a Dremel? I've bought some pop bumper bling so will be removing the ramp on mine shortly, I was let to believe that it wasn't too difficult and that one only needed to watch out for the diverter.

By the way it looks like you forgot to screw the metal ramp to the plastic ramp :)
 
Thanks Durzel. Sorry was a bit misleading, the pops didn’t need dremelling, the ramp did. I bought a dud of eBay which was warped to ****. Nothing lined up properly so I had to dremel the mount holes. Also the ball drop hole was set too far towards the end so with the end stop rubber on it wouldn’t drop through so I had to enlarge the hole.

I had to remove the whole ramp assembly again to tweak the led in the red pop bumper. I then took these pics before reassembling it hence the missing screws and flasher dimes in some of the pics.

I might have to nick the driver board from wh20 so I can play it!

Oh and the light green rubbers are the glow in the dark ones from Titan. They’re pretty cool actually. They do actually glow a bit
 
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