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TAF Ball Launch after ball locked

I've done a bit of work and put a new chip in (ULN2803) I switched the machine on and checked the switches with the jumper with similar results as before. I switched the machine off to check the board, put it back on again and now it's telling me to check fuses 114 & 115, I done that and they're fine, also 2 of the 4 test switches aren't working. Anyone have any ideas.
 
Acid damage on CPU board. You say it had it before, it sounds like it wasn't fully neutralised. Test switches not working is a classic symptom when the connector area gets corroded.

You could try jumpering the connector on the board in switch test to see if it registers, but given you are getting spurious errors about fuses that aren't blown I think it's academic.

I would suggest taking out the CPU board and sending it off to one of the guys on here, e.g. @myPinballs
 
I've came to the conclusion that my board is f**ked so I'm going to sulk for a while, and then I'm going to try and convince my wife to let me buy a new one.
 
The way you phrased that made me chuckle, sorry. Have you tried speaking to @myPinballs or someone else on here who repairs boards? They should be able to at least tell you what the score is.
 
I stuck it under a light and you can see the where the tracks are damaged, I'll keep a hold of it and one day I may see if there's anything can be done with it as a back up, but i want to be certain that there isn't a board problem when I go back to the machine and try to get it working properly, so I'm sticking to plan A for now.
 
So I cancelled the holidays this year and the kids are in their bare feet but I've got a new CPU board. The only problem is the original issue is still there i.e. when the first ball is locked by thing the next ball doesn't kick out to play, and the machine just goes through the process of looking for a lost ball. I've done another swicth test and the swamp lock center is triggering the left out lane and the thing up opto, I disconnecte dthe opto and the switch just triggers itself as it should. This would point to an opto issue to me. Has anyone had anything like this is, does anyone know of any opto checks that can be carried out.
 
After spitting my dummy out for a couple of months I've went back to the machine, it may be something new but it may just be cause some of the switches weren't right, some of them still aren't but I came across this and it may be that I've been at it too long but this one has me stumped.
When the bookcase switch shows closed if i trigger any switch on the same row it triggers the switch in the same column but on the 5th row as well, if I open the bookcase and try it it doesn't do it. I've changed the bookcase switch and the diode and it's a new borad on thing. Does anyone have any ideas.
 

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Are you certain that the diode is correctly polarised and connected to the right wires. ? Can you photograph it?
 
Well the first thing I done was swap over the open and closed switches to see if the fault would transfer but it didn't so then i put a new swicth and diode in as a belt and braces effort.
 
But my question is, did you install it correctly. If you get the diode reversed or the wiring to the contacts in the wrong place you will get these sort of symptoms.
 
Like most people I always think I've installed it correctly, but in this case I can only assume I hadn't, I re-soldered the connections and it worked. I also found what appears to be the route of the original problem. I had done the switch checks and thought everything was ok but obviously hadn't been paying enough attention. It turns out two of the trough switches were the wrong way around as in right was center and vice versa, so although there was a ball waiting to be played it wouldn't kick out as it didn't register having a ball in the right hand trough. Just shows you check, check and check again.

I've played a few games now an the balls are starting to struggle to kick out of the swamp, do solenoids start to get lazy ie lose their kicking power or is it likely to be something else.
 
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