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Shooter Lane Coil Heating Up

James

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Joined
Dec 29, 2017
Messages
5,092
Location
Norwich
Alias
James
Hi all,

My shooter lane coil in BSD is getting damn hot, it’s not firing but just heating up - the driver board is coming out tonight for other remedial works - am I right I’m guessing abad TIP102 would cause this heating issue on the associated cool - all other coils seem good...
 
Check the resistance of the coil too vs what it's supposed to be
 
Thanks @astyy will do, I have just checked the TIP (it’s not a 102 it’s the beefy one) and that is in range with the others on the board... I also put my meter on the pin to ground and wasn’t getting any voltage off of the pin when the game was started which to me suggests an issue with the coil. Can the coil of bad pull power from the board like a resistor causing it to heat up? It’s still plunging and firing which doesn’t make sense as you’d assume it heating up would be because of a “locked on” state.
 
The coil windings could be shorted, wire coating worn off as the windings expand/contract or similar, it will measure lower resistance and get hot due to drawing more current.
 
What is the switch off for the coil on BSD? Has it got a switch in the shooter lane or one on the lane gate?

Worth checking that to see if it actually works.
 
Driver board is out now - so can’t check but it has one in the shooter lane and I am 99% sure it works...

3CF6A320-60C8-4A18-AB13-EEE569D83487.jpeg

Looks like it has had a diode on before, but that’s missing...

It’s an AE 23-800-03 reading 4ohms the chart says it should read 4.2 - so this is within range...

83EC1341-AB7D-40CE-9BC8-73E1AE78CE9A.jpeg

Could the lack of Diode been the issue?

The other thing is I have just replaced the start button, not sure what as going on but the light is lighting up but it is not registering - could this be the issue?
 
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No smooth through the shooter - should it have a diode as a high power solenoid and will the lack of diode cause over heating?

The other thing is wouldn’t I be seeing the driver board throw out some voltage to cause heating up if it was a board issue or just be straight up locking on as a board issue...
 
With the coil connected to the driver board, you should see 50-70v at the drive pin. The SAME voltage as you should see at both of the coil terminals. When the coil is active the drive pin should drop close to zero. You may not be able to measure this. If you see a constant voltage at the drive pin that is not the same as both the coil terminals of if one coil terminal is at a different voltage than the other then the coil is partially on, and drawing current. This could be a bad drive transistor or some other partial short.
 
If your coil is fine for what I said,as your boards out shotgun with predriver and driver transistors
 
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Ok I have royally screwed something here - lord knows how, probably shorted something on the board, I am guessing the bridge rectifier somehow trying to test the voltages (fuse was gone already hence me getting zero prior to this, but was working to get the bad smell)

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When I put the meter on J107-3 and the ground it to test the voltage I am getting the fuse pop straight away - now this wasn't happening before and I haven't changed anything on the board shotgun wise prior to this is BR3 - I could test at TP6 for 50VDC I assume, but don't want to F this up - it'd just be earthed to the braid wire in the cab right?

Screen Shot 2018-11-03 at 11.00.35.png
 
Yep that’ll be the BR3 out... great job James LOL D578CA66-89DE-4FEE-8A0F-D0FD4D97A7E2.jpeg
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BR3 and cap changed - found a nick on the power driver wire so shrink wrapped that - rewired the start game button and that now works, game plays fine and there is no heating up....not sure what fixed it but it is fixed.
 
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