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Rollergames - need help already!

Cheers guys. Here’s the plan, would like your feedback.

I’ve ordered new LED bulbs for the back board after receiving some advice, I understand this should reduce the current draw by some margin? Any idea how much?

I’ll pull the PCB off the machine, desolder and remove the damaged header and solder in a new one.

I’ll check the new connector to see if actually damaged or just a bit of scorching, and replace as reqd.

Hopefully ?it’ll work reliably.
 
OK, so I am going to call this. The purchaser of this game has my enormous sympathy. It looked OK on eBay. But this game is giving far, far too much trouble. I am going to say what dozens of knowledgeable folk on this forum will be thinking right now.

Just like @James when he bought his No Fear (sincerest apologies if I am wrong here), you have been sold a game by the same, very knowledgeable seller that misrepresented its condition.

You should be able to fix this. But it is not fair that you have had all this aggro given the way this game was described on eBay. It would have been abundantly obvious to a seller that owned this game for a decade (as the eBay listing claimed) that connectors were toast and boards were missing. The dulux paint job on the cabinet should also have been fairly disclosed.

I have often said that there are three types of pinball sellers.

1. Idiots. Folk who are genuinely clueless. They have no idea what the game needs. The game just develops fault after fault over the years. These guys have no idea and just sell it when the faults get too serious.

2. Liars. They know exactly what the game needs, typically expensive/ difficult repairs. But they pretend to be idiots to achieve a sale to a noob or gullible buyer.

3. Honest, knowledgeable, fair sellers. Sadly, the tiny minority.

Next time - but from someone you know. Or from a geek on here with a decent reputation.

Best wishes with getting her fixed.
 
Did this come from the one and the same?

I agree with @DRD on the three types, but moreover, I would say those that sell with known faults under sell them, just because its quicker to flog to a NOOB or gullible buyer without listing it out, and hope it is OK.

If you really feel the item wasn't as described @Jetsetron - complain via ebay.

My repairs probably weren't overly expensive or actually all that technical

Flasher circuit required capacitor, and bridge rectifier needed to be fitted so board work
Optos needed cleaning on subway
Couple of switch errors
Magnet error
DMD Line Out Appeared
Issue on VUK


The NF now needs all flipper rebuilds. Once you know a good strong flipper, anything else is non-negotiable.

Honestly though, some things happen in transit, some were known before hand and under played, others were just not described - it sucks, but you learn from your mistakes and how to check over before buying, maybe the hard way hey. Not all buyers are the same...

In fact, I bought my second pin from @chris b which needed some bits done... that was a completely different transaction, as described and whilst needed some minor work, no gremlins under the hood I am concerned about. So much so I am currently looking to go back to him for another one, if I get my NF gone.

This forum will see you right...

My 2p on the toasty connectors, solve the issue, reducing the draw by changing up to LED's is just masking the problem.
 
For a connector to fry within a week means you have a major voltage issue somewhere. These things normally take 10 to 30 years to fry
 
i would trace the toasty connector back to the PSU and review any failure points or potential failure points along the way...

Do you have the schematic from IPDB yet?
 
Thanks for the comments guys. I have a copy of the manual. I’m trying to work out what’s what, and have a go when I think I can do so without setting the machine on fire. I think I need a good afternoon with the manual in front of the machine tracing wires back.

I don’t think this will be a quick path, but I hope to learn along the way, make this pin a good example, and make better decisions when I buy a second to join it.
 
Don't be a hero though mate in regards to complaining. Just because it's a pin and they need attention, it was still missold and you are entitled to compensation.
It really fooks me off when people know things go on and they don't speak out about it. Scared to rock the boat.
 
Yea it sold for £1130 and was described as cabinet excellent... but also good working order.... Would you describe this issue as allowing the unit to be in good working order?


Screen Shot 2018-07-01 at 07.42.36.png

Tracing those pins shouldn't take any real amount of time on the schematic, but I think most have pointed to something already.
 
As @DRD mentioned voltage, have you measured whats what and compared them to the recommend levels yet? I think that would be a good start.
 
I would be asking the seller for replacement boards, or something for the costs of repair.

No offense intended here, but if this is your first pinball it may take you a while to get it going fully. An experienced pinhead could probably fix it in a few hours. Those header pins would of been like that for a while.

You need to download the manual and make sure you have the correct wiring on those pins, the complete header pins should be changed. If you come to sell on the game - that will be noticed. But you also need to change the plug as well if it has signs of burning already.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2006

Where are you based exactly? Perhaps someone can help you out close by??

This is a great community to get help from, but you should not need to ask in this instance.
 
I’m in Sleaford Lincolnshire. The amount of people who are prepared to help has been quite incredible.

The seller has been in touch and is trying to resolve the situation, and has offered a replacement Interconnect board if the problem persists.
 
I would once it is checked over and all okay @Jetsetron send the old board back. Someone skilled will run down the issue and it is fair that if the seller is resolving, they should be able to sell the reworked board on.
 
I'd also compare the interconnect board to the one in yr machine re the resistors and jumpers. Some boards have jumpers instead of resistors and vice-versa and the resistor values can be different as well.
 
The interconnect pcb is largely just that. The only 'active' components on it are the opto-coupler chips for flipper 'lane change' and solenoid extender status switches (there is a slightly different, earlier pcb without these). The fitment of the large resistors/jumpers depends on the solenoid and flashbulb circuits; different numbers of bulbs require different values of protective resistance

From memory, the gen. illumination circuits for System 11 are all ac. The transformer output arrives at the interconnect pcb (if there is one) or power supply board on the Yellow/Yellow-white wires, and splits into four separately fused branches, Green/trace, Purple/trace, Brown/trace and another I can't recall just now (Orange? No, Yellow, despite the possibility of confusion). Where an interconnect is used, each of these is then routed to the cabinet, playfield or backbox connecting headers, as applicable, with breaker relays fitted locally for p/field and insert circuits

Edit - if it helps, the game that a pcb originates from can be identified from the label(s). Besides the warranty label, the generic label will also mention the games' "project number"; Rollergames was No. 576. The Bally-branded games used 4-digit numbers, beginning with a 2.
 
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The seller sent me a couple of boards, I bought a decal set, LED’s, rubbers and a few other bits. Pretty happy with the end result for a first go at working on pinball machines.
 

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The seller sent me a couple of boards, I bought a decal set, LED’s, rubbers and a few other bits. Pretty happy with the end result for a first go at working on pinball machines.

Ron glad to see it sorted but if anyone is defending the clown that sold this they can go and do one. I’m saying it again - avoid buying anything from him he is the head clown of the circus that is for sure.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Did you sand the sides down and repaint it mate? Looks a lot more matt.
Looks good.

I wonder how the Fun house is fairing that was sold last week.
 
I sanded down the sides, filled, primed and satin black round the edges. The decal fills the entire side. It’s not perfect, but it’s a lot better.
 
Did you sand the sides down and repaint it mate? Looks a lot more matt.
Looks good.

I wonder how the Fun house is fairing that was sold last week.

I predict it will be anything but fun.
 
It is a shame you had to go thru all of this to get your machine sorted.

Personally I have zero problems when I buy an 'as-is' game as generally - I have been told the faults and I know how to fix them. I have bought 2 projects from forum members in the last 6 months and they do not hear from me again. What I do have issues with is when someone is sold a 'fully working' game and gets issues like this that clearly have not appeared due to the game being transported.

I hope you stick around this forum and next time you want to buy a game, please look on here first.

If you do decide to buy from ebay, see if someone local to you (or local to the seller) is prepared to view the game with you before you hand over the money.

Recently I have done repairs on two games that were purchased from people local to me, one of them required so much work it was untrue.

Please do not let this put you off.

Also - not a bad job on the pinball - for a first go at decals you have done really really well!
 
Thanks for that ? - I have found this forum superb and will definitely be sticking around.

It’s reignited my love of pinball and I now want a collection.
 
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