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Mylar Pull - Bally SS Games

DRD

DRD

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I know that the golden rule of mylar pulling is not to do it .....

But I am considering a mylar pull on my Flash Gordon - as it is lifting along some edges which tells me that the glue is failing.

I pulled the mylar on my vector a while back and it was 100% successful - again the glue was lifting. This was an aftermarket mylar though as there was some minimal wear under it. I had enjoyed a few lagers, got irritated by it, so just went for it.

Has anyone had a bad experience of pulling mylar on these 1980 to 1982 vintage games ?

Freeze or warming techniques ?

Thanks
 
DRD said:
I know that the golden rule of mylar pulling is not to do it .....

But I am considering a mylar pull on my Flash Gordon - as it is lifting along some edges which tells me that the glue is failing.

I pulled the mylar on my vector a while back and it was 100% successful - again the glue was lifting. This was an aftermarket mylar though as there was some minimal wear under it. I had enjoyed a few lagers, got irritated by it, so just went for it.

Has anyone had a bad experience of pulling mylar on these 1980 to 1982 vintage games ?

Freeze or warming techniques ?

Thanks
Click to expand...
I pulled the Mylar from my Vector David with no paint loss. I used the freeze method and took it VERY slowly. Cleaned the glue off with alcohol and flour then put multiple coats of wax on.
Looked fantastic afterwards and played like a dream.
 
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I pulled a full pf mylar on Fireball 2 a few years ago and that looked sweet afterwards (it was the one at NLP in 2015 I think). I went with the heat method and would probably do that again rather than the freeze spray. My general rule of thumb is freeze method on diamond plate/clear coated pf's and heat method on anything older, I feel I have more control over the pull using heat :thumbs:
 
Not done the freeze method only the heat way using a hair dryer . Burn's your fingers a bit ,but I don't have a heat gun :confused:
 
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