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machine dying when flippers are pressed after about 2 minutes play

  • Thread starter Deleted member 3624
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Deleted member 3624

really as above - just had the driver board repaired - fitted it and it all booted fine , until after about 2 minutes of play when I pressed the flippers ( right side dual flipper 9 BLACK ROSE ) the whole table dies - reboots and does the same thing but this time as soon as you press either flipper - any ideas , I've re-seated and treble checked everything - its as though the flipper 50v power is robbing the CPU - the original repair was the bridge which was blowing the f114 fuse .before I hassle the repairer any obvious ideas?
 
Common as f00k problem - check the guide here - scroll down to Bally/Williams "WPC" Games, start with the very first item, check it / replace it, verify it is not a problem before you try the next one. It's ordered in the other you should check/replace, starting with quickest/cheapest/simplest to perform. You'll flush the issue out for sure.

Disregard the previous, I didn't realise you weren't fixing this yourself.

For a fast diagnosis (as opposed to solution) get a multimeter and check the voltage at test point TP2, on the driver board. It is likely well short of 5V - dropping as the game warms up. If that's happening, then the driver board is still duff but for a different reason than the bridge - presumably the bridge is good because it was replaced. It could be capacitors or the regulator.

Very disappointing that this has happened on a 'repaired' board, though. They musn't have tested their work for more than a minute, which is foolish when repairing pinball boards. You should always give a repaired board a good few credits of good, honest, actually-trying games before giving it back...

If TP2 is solid and above 5V and you still get resets, you'll need to *properly* clean the driver board connectors and pins with isopropyl alcohol (or other good electrical cleaner.) If that doesn't work then you might have a missing/failed diode on the flipper coils.
 
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PBrookfield said:
Common as f00k problem - check the guide here - scroll down to Bally/Williams "WPC" Games, start with the very first item, check it / replace it, verify it is not a problem before you try the next one. It's ordered in the other you should check/replace, starting with quickest/cheapest/simplest to perform. You'll flush the issue out for sure.
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is it likely to be the 5v regulator then as it looks like he has already changed this ! possibly the issue of a faulty item under load !
 
northantspin said:
is it likely to be the 5v regulator then as it looks like he has already changed this ! possibly the issue of a faulty item under load !
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Sorry I edited my post after posting it first - check it again. I've got more relevant advice in it for your situation.

If they've been chasing down resets and has done the bridge and regulator already, it is probably the capacitors on the driver board - backed up by the fact that electrolytic capacitors that are failing/failed get progressively more dysfunctional as they warm up.
 
PBrookfield said:
Sorry I edited my post after posting it first - check it again. I've got more relevant advice in it for your situation.

If they've been chasing down resets and has done the bridge and regulator already, it is probably the capacitors on the driver board - backed up by the fact that electrolytic capacitors that are failing/failed get progressively more dysfunctional as they warm up.
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The OP said it was Fuse 114 blowing, not chasing reset issue that was originally problem. So assume they changed BR1.

It could be just be a flaky connector and the removal and re-installation of the board has aggravated it.

Search for Andys reset advice on here.

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk
 
Sgt GrizZ said:
The OP said it was Fuse 114 blowing, not chasing reset issue that was originally problem. So assume they changed BR1.

It could be just be a flaky connector and the removal and re-installation of the board has aggravated it.

Search for Andys reset advice on here.

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk
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No don’t think it a connector - plays fine when you first switch it on - like one of the kind gentlemen said before it’s sounding like a cap or the 5v reg failing over as it gets hot - at first it’s the power pull from the right hand flipper that’s required to force the reset - then it can be a bumper coil or the left hand single flipper , the repairer is a sound bloke known on here I’m sure he will sort it - I just wanted to see if it may have been a quick fix
 
What was fixed on the driver board? Can you take a picture of the driver board front and back?
 
northantspin said:
No don’t think it a connector - plays fine when you first switch it on - like one of the kind gentlemen said before it’s sounding like a cap or the 5v reg failing over as it gets hot - at first it’s the power pull from the right hand flipper that’s required to force the reset - then it can be a bumper coil or the left hand single flipper , the repairer is a sound bloke known on here I’m sure he will sort it - I just wanted to see if it may have been a quick fix
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Actually if it's one of the forum people that repaired your board I'm not going to assume repairer fault anymore - the people here know their stuff.

It could still easily be a connector - in fact it usually is, the molex pins used on almost all pinball machines are so prone to corrosion it is unreal. The ribbon cables are even worse. If there's a nasty connection then it could be adding resistance to the connection only slightly, and it's only upsetting the MPU when it goes below the threshold when everything warms up.

If absolutely nothing else - get some vinegar on a paper towel, and give the following sets of pins a bit of a scrub. IPA would be best, distilled vinegar would be okay, but if all you've got is malt vinegar, it'll do to just check. If this immediately improves matters you can then return to clean pins with the proper means. The bottom set of pins are the most important to really ensure you buff a bit.

Also clean the pins on the other side of the ribbon cable, on the driver board, in case.

The amount of issues I've fixed on pinballs just by cleaning pins is amazing.

87071
 
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Sgt GrizZ said:
The OP said it was Fuse 114 blowing, not chasing reset issue that was originally problem. So assume they changed BR1.
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The reason for my assumption is that it would be weird to replace Q1 as well if the bridge was the issue - so I assume that another issue was spotted while it was being worked on for blowing F114.
 
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