What's new
Pinball info

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

JD Ball Trough Optos

JMP

JMP

Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 12, 2011
Messages
3,470
Location
Lancashire
Hi all, what's your suggestion to a newb that can't solder very well:



Error reporting states to check LED switch within ball trough, it appears two aren't working nearest the plunger. I would replace both trough PCB's but someone (via the previous owner) has soldered all the wires to the board connection pins rather than use a connection block (if that's the right word).



i) How easy is it to insert wires back into a connection block if I can find the right sized one? Pinball Heaven has replacement trough LED boards I could fit.

ii) Other than cleaning the LED's (that I have already tried) is there anything else to look out for as a possible repair of my existing boards before replacing. I'm presuming the LED's have simply gone duff.



The error is no big deal, just fires out three balls in Supergame instead of two. Still bugs me though.



Thanks.



P.S Meant to state trough LED's in the title and apologies if stupid newb questions...!
rolleyes-1.gif
 
Sounds like the leds need replacing. Digikey sell them for peanuts.....(QED123 type iirc)



If you cant solder very well, then replacing the opto leds could be a waste of time. Heat kills leds very easily, so you have to be quick soldering them whilst using a slightly lower heat setting.



I can fix it for you cheaply if you like? I have a load of those leds (bought in bulk due to ALWAYS changing them, lol) and it wouldnt take long. If that interests you, let me know.
 
First make sure you actually have a problem. Often in JD these last two optos appear on the error report because the balls have not left the trough in that location for a number of games. i.e. no 6 ball multiball. Take all the balls out by running the solenoid test over and over. Then double check optos in switch edge test. Check that the problem is not caused by wiring pulled out of the connector. If the problem still persists and is definitely the optos, then they will need to be resoldered, and if that doesn't cure, then replace the optos and/or the resistors. The problem is likely to be localised to the sender board, closest to you. This can be removed and sent away for repair. I fear you may have to get into soldering. Buy a decent soldering iron, and you must get some leaded solder. You will struggle with the commonly available lead free variety. Inserting wires into a new connector is pretty fiddly.
 
Do the trough test first as Andy says. Before you solder away, it is possible that the trough LEDs just need a good clean.... Turn the power off first then take the trough PCB (nearest the end of the playfield) off and use a wet wipe to clean. With the pcb off switch the power back on to the game and check the PCB's using a mobile phone's camera. Looking at the camera's live picture check that the LEDs are lit. If any are not then you have found the problem area. Whilst you have the PCB off gently use a cotton bud to clean the reciever LEDs by wetting the tip then poking it through where the led shines across the trough to the other PCB (this is a pig to get off and clean thanks to lack of access on JD). Put the removed PCB back on the game and repeat the tough test to see if the fault remains or not....



Good luck !
smile-1.png
 
Thanks all for the replies. Just to expand, I've already unscrewed both trough PCB's but not disconnected them as the connection wires are soldered directly onto the board pins (no plastic connection block there). I've cleaned the two problem LED's thoroughly with no luck. I checked these using the switch edge test, running an item down the trough checking each, one at a time.



I can solder (a bit) so long as the PCB has been removed and have a flat surface to work at etc. and tempted to do this but the re-connection of wires to the tiny board pins and my lack of skill that could damage the new LED's are my concern. I would fit another connection block (that shoud be there anyway) but also concerned I won't get the wires into it.



Rus121, thanks for the offer of repair, I'd be happy to send the two boards over to you but again bothered about re-soldering the wires back to the board pins or getting a connection block on them. I may have to get someone out to me up in the North, last time cost me a fortune for relatively minor work so have always tried to do things myself since. Can anyone suggest where to find the right plastic connection block? Are they pretty standard? If so, I'll look at Maplins or CPC near me in Preston.



Thanks again.
 
Andy at pinmania (above) stocks the connector/s you need.



Whereabouts up north are you?
 
Thanks for info, I'm near Preston. If you're not within reaching distance there's someone in Chorley I may be able to call on.... Makes sense to get the right connector blocks and get it put right once and for all. Will have to check the number of pins. Cheers.
 
Bit far for me. I'm in Teesside.....



Hope you get someting sorted, but if you get stuck theres plenty of help about.
 
Oh and I forgot to mention that it may not be the LEDs at fault (should you find one or more out), the resistor legs on the trough boards are very prone to breakages...
 
Thanks, I'm going to remove and take a closer look at them later and will check all the tracing/legs as far as my untrained eye can see. For now, I've just looked at the connection pins and noted some are bent, thinking this and the fact they'll be covered in solder means fitting a new block may not be so easy...



Struggling to upload photo here but link below:



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/847/picture120h.jpg/



To the other PCB the wires have been soldered to the back rather than the pins but there's only two so suppose I could try replacing just that side first?
 
As I said previously, you need to see what's working first so use a mobile phone or digital camera to check the infrared LEDs on the transmitter PCB. That will help pinpoint any problem areas on the transmitter board....
 
Sorry, thought I had already done that by inserting an item down the trough, watching each switch open and close. Will try your suggestion to see if I can see anything from the two that appear duff. Ta.
 
JPM, I'm in Chorley and have loads of connectors you can have to put the thing back to how it should be. PM me if you need the help and we can sort something out.
 
replicas' date=' post: 1677812 said:
JPM, I'm in Chorley and have loads of connectors you can have to put the thing back to how it should be. PM me if you need the help and we can sort something out.
Click to expand...



Thanks a lot. Couldn't see the PM option but have started a conversaiton if that's the same thing....



Tell you what, been a member of vintage synthesiser forums for years (private and public) and impressed with the quick responses and help in here. Cheers lads.
 
If you have a multimeter, you can measure if the leds are working or not without removing the board. With power on, measure dc voltage across the solder tabs of the led. A working led should measure 0.6-0.7V.



As a general rule, instead of trying to remember all the voltages things should measure, compare measurements of a suspect device to a known working element.
 
Decided to buy two new trough opto boards for the JD following advice, as my existing ones were in pretty bad shape overall. Also bought the connectors to avoid any further soldering of wires to pins. However, I'm now trying to source a 0.1" insertion tool to fit the wires to the connectors and can't find one anywhere.... Already tried Pinball Mania, Pinball Heaven and Marco websites with no luck.



Anyone know where I can find one of these tools? Thanks in advance.
 
Cheers pal. Initially by-passed that one thinking it was a different tool (compared to the ones above). The side prongs on this one must hold the wire I presume.



I'll order two.
wink-1.png
 
To close the thread...., JD ball trough all good and working now but used soldered crimp pin connectors in the end for better reliability. Soldering experience is moderately improving.... Thanks all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom