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J120 Repair

ukgeezer

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Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
3
Hi



Took delivery of a J120 repair kit for my BoP, Thanks Andy. The current connector is burnt out and lights on backboard are poor. The pins on the Powerboard all look clean, do you think I could get away with replacing just the connecter as my "playing with circuit boards" is pretty limited and I have very little experience with a solder iron.



Thanks

Lee
 
The heat generated can causethe solder on the pins to crack. At the very least remove the board and reflow the solder i.e. reheat it untilit melts to remove any cracking.

I'd replace it as oxidised pins will cause resistance causing heat which will burn the connector and cause the pins to oxidise causing heat... etc.
 
Cheers Phil

how do you remove the pins from the board, heat up the solder and pull the pins out?
 
ukgeezer' date=' post: 1662993 said:
Cheers Phil

how do you remove the pins from the board, heat up the solder and pull the pins out?



Basically yes - however as you say you haven't much experience soldering etc, in this case , if the pins do all look good, then I would maybe say leave it until you have had a bit of practice (get a scrap board and solder/desolder at yr leisure)



Its not that hard, but like anything easy to feck up at first.



Like Phil said, possibly reflowing solder would be a good idea, to deal with any cracked joints.
 
Matt Vince' date=' post: 1663046 said:
All i ever manage to do with a de-soldering tool is melt the tip!!!!

What temp is your iron set at ?
wink-1.png
 
replicas' date=' post: 1663048 said:
What temp is your iron set at ?
wink-1.png

I use a portable gas iron, it just has a slider! Should the iron be able to heat the components, melt the solder and not melt plastic? This could explain alot!!!!
 
Great when you need a quick repair, But using a solder station where you can set the temp will save the end of your sucker.

Even better get yourself a de solder station.
 
Good tip when reflowing the underside of the board is to place an old header on the pins, this keeps them all aligned and in situ as you re-flow otherwise you can end up with the graveyard effect.
 
Matt Vince' date=' post: 1663049 said:
I use a portable gas iron, it just has a slider! Should the iron be able to heat the components, melt the solder and not melt plastic? This could explain alot!!!!



Gas iron temps range from "furnace" to "hotter than hell". I suggest you get a mains iron for board work. I don't use a temp controlled one but a 15W Weller jobbie from Maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/15w-miniature-soldering-iron-type-c-4052 for 20 quid you can't go wrong.

Also for most boards don't use lead free solder, most were made before ROHS and I find leaded works & flows better (the original probably being leaded solder).
 
Totally agree with the leaded solder. Lead free stuff also tends to 'dry joint' when used without a flux unless enough heat is applied. Flux cored, leaded solder i find very easy to use and have never had any issues with it.
 
Had loads of those gas irons too. Cheap ones could be sold as eyebrow hair removers.... lol.
 
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