HELP - TRON (pro) blowing cabinet fuses..

[Monkeyboypaul]

Had a great few games on Tron earlier today (it was a screen break!) but then it suddenly started trying to raise and lower the 3 drop targets, whilst all the high power coils seemed to lose power.

I checked the backbox and found F5 had blown, but still had a faint red light, so the flippers were still fluttering slightly when the flipper buttons are pressed.

Replaced F5 (with the specified 7A SB), turned the machine on again but with the door open (high voltage disabled) - games starts attract mode as usual. All inserts light work, and all flashers are ok.

As soon as the coin door closes - the cabinet 5A SB goes pop & the whole game dies.

Checked under the playfield, nothing is obviously burnt out, shorted, or struggling.

Could the not quite blown F5 incident have damaged BRDG 1?

What should i be looking for?

any tips gratefully appreciated.

Does anyone know what the little glass bulb thingy is attached to the 3 bank motor harness??? It's got 2 little metal prongs inside, but they're not touching...





New F5 fitted (a Bussman fuse from Pinball Mania) - just noticed a big blob of solder at the top of F11 too!

 

[Moonraker]

The glass bulb thingy you ask about is a glass bulb that is suppose to light when the motor is being operated which allows you to see that it is working when the playfield is up.

Yes it is possible to blow the bridge BRDG1, not managed it on Tron but have on another game of the same board set.

You need to find the problem (and replace) - possible blown transistor (yes, flippers are transistor driven), possible blown coil (check resistance of them), possible blown bridge (diode check) and possible stuck motor (manually move it if possible).

 

[RudeDogg1]

I’d say the blob of solder on f11 is because them fuse holders are crap so it prob broke so they bodged it rather than replace

 

[carl lawrence]

That little glass thingy is a neon for protection for the motor !Had one on my Avatar which I broke off buy accident ,think Andy has one left at the mo !!

 

[Monkeyboypaul]

So the coils all check continuity test.

3-Bank target motor is movable manually, with a little force applied - internal cogs whirring happily from the sounds of it.

Next step it remove the P/D board for a closer look...

 

[carl lawrence]

Don't think you should be able to move the motor manually !
If is the same motor which is used in IJ4 and SM ,there crap !
Unplug it and see if that fuse pops again.

 

[pinballtoys]

has something like this on an AC/DC
IIRC it was a short between 50V and maybe 20V, wires had got trapped in the mechanism/spring of a VUK at the top of the playfield.
Likely lifting the playfield up/down had trapped the big bunch of wires which leave the playfield to go to the I/O board
that's why you have dim light on the 50V fuse indicators

 

[pinballtoys]

meant to say with the game off I bet you can measure low resistance between the two of the supply rails
maybe 50V and 20V

 

[Monkeyboypaul]

3-bank motor disconnected.

Game boots, as it did before, but now i can close the H/V interlock switch and F5 blows again, instead of the 5A cabinet fuse.

Coil test:

Flashers appear to work (All LED)
Disc working perfectly.
All other solenoids working but incredibly weak (the fluttering i mentioned in my initial report). Relays down towards the bottom playfield (when lifted) are clicking each time i 'test' a coil, and i can see the Fuse LEDs flickering. I can see the Relays actuating.

Still need that board out i think.

 

[Durzel]

I'm of no help but is it possible that these symptoms are the result of a blown component on that board? As in - perhaps the original problem has been fixed and now what you're seeing is the symptoms of a board failure?

 

[Monkeyboypaul]

I'm of no help but is it possible that these symptoms are the result of a blown component on that board? As in - perhaps the original problem has been fixed and now what you're seeing is the symptoms of a board failure?

It's possible - i've ordered a spare SAM-spec BR @ £4 for BRDG1, just in case.

 

[Vimtoman]

Disconnect J10 and see if fuse still blows.
If it does then its possibly on the board.
I would then check BRGD 1.
If you have a meter with diode check ,disconnect power and check using the meter.
Also make sure you have slow blow fuses.

The connectors at the bottom J12,J9,J8,J7,J6 of the board looking at the pcb picture supply's also have 50v.
I would disconnect those too to see if it's local.

If you had a schematic I could help a bit more.
Is there an online manual?

 

[Monkeyboypaul]

Disconnect J10 and see if fuse still blows.
If it does then its possibly on the board.
I would then check BRGD 1.
If you have a meter with diode check ,disconnect power and check using the meter.
Also make sure you have slow blow fuses.

The connectors at the bottom J12,J9,J8,J7,J6 of the board looking at the pcb picture supply's also have 50v.
I would disconnect those too to see if it's local.

If you had a schematic I could help a bit more.
Is there an online manual?

Thanks, I’ll process this tomorrow.
Manual: http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/tron/tron/431/Tron Manual.pdf

 

[Monkeyboypaul]

Board is going off to Andy N.

I'm not happy working on this board myself...