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Complete Getaway HS2 - roger 504, apprehend him!

Fubar

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 5, 2020
Messages
1,712
Location
Cambridge, UK
Alias
Thomas
So this one ends up being a little bit more than I'd bargained for - the further I get into it the more stuff I want to fix/replace. But this is no mint resto just a jolly good tidy up so here we go....

First I played a couple hundred games on it because it's a really fun game! Had a couple immediate issues:
  • Game tripped the fuse maybe 1/5 times when it was powered on. The power box was totally bodged: no fuse holder, no thermistor nor varistor, and the fuse itself bypassed with a wire 🤦‍♂️
    So I rebuilt that... (sorry forgot to take a before pic of the box but here is the hacked fuse)
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  • Upper flipper sometimes stuck up. It would go back down when the game was switched off, or could be coaxed back down manually. Very weird!! Turns out the EOS switch mounting screws were making contact with the coil wire! Turned them the other way around and the fault vanished. Took the opportunity to replace the parts from the rebuild kit which was included in the sale.
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  • The auto-launcher also didn't usually make it around, that was solved by replacing the plunger with a new one.

After that I got a LED kit and replaced all the inserts and backbox lights. The sockets in the backbox didn't make very good contact and I had to wiggle a few of them to get them all to light up consistently. But in the end all good, just the GI left for now. Again thought I had a photo of that but anyway not super interesting...

The sign above the supercharger ramp was broken but a new one was included in the sale - that wasn't hard to fit and later I plan on getting some @Colywobbles plastics to protect it from further destruction :)
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The playfield has mylar (I guess from the factory) which is overall in OK condition. It's creased in some insignificant areas like around some posts, and someone seems to have tried their hand at removing it under one of the plastics. Some of the inserts are also slightly raised, for example the hold bonus. This affects ball travel a bit, so the plan is to warm it up with a heat gun and bang them back down. Not feeling too confident about this bit so putting it off for now!
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Now the main issue in my view is rust, mostly just light surface rust in particular parts which are in contact with wood. Guess this game spent some time by the seaside?
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In most cases it's very light as I said, but the worst however is the lockdown receiver, I think it must have soaked up a few beers, in fact the bar's beer seal doesn't seal much anymore and will be getting replaced! Got some evaporust as others seem to be having success with it: first problem 1L isn't enough!! Will see how it does after a soak, in the meanwhile took the supercharger apart for a much-needed clean.

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The sale also included some un-fitted mirror blades. One of the previous owners was clearly hoarding parts to do some kind of restoration but never got round to putting in the hours. I must say it gets a bit depressing when there's so much to be done ... ! Anyway with help from my darling wife the playfield came out of the machine and I gave the inside of the cab a much needed sweep & hoover. (This pic is before!)

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As you can tell by now this is a bit of a basket case and I have to draw the line somewhere as I don't have the time to do a proper resto, but couldn't bear to sell it without fixing some of the worst things (in particular the high voltage electrics mentioned above!).

Next jobs: fit the mirror blades (waiting on some screws), put the playfield back in & LED the GI, rebuild the gyro resistor PCB which is all black, fit new back glass channel (current one is broken), fit new decal around the shifter stick (currently missing), sort out the raised inserts, and of course put everything back together 😅
 

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Getaway was well into the 'Diamond Plate' era, so Mylar wouldn't have been factory fitted; that said, a T2 work owned must have missed the D/P stage, as the playfield was appallingly rough out of the box. Deith Leisure supplied a Mylar for it.

I notice a common mistake with the Jet Bumpers - the thin washers on the linkage rods are under the nyloc nuts, rather than above the two linkages.
 
Not too much progress recently as spent the long weekend at the seaside with the kids (first world problems I know!). Still managed to get a couple smaller jobs done...

The lockdown parts have had enough evaporust and it's worked quite well. Only issue was I don't have a good container / not enough evaporust to cover the whole part, so a section in the middle isn't as clean. Still a big improvement over what was there and a learning experience for me. Stuck the new beer seal on too, and screwed the receiver back in.
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Next job was the mirror blades which again came with this pin but unfitted. Screws were not supplied, these attach with ramp screws and once again I turned to the legend Andy Netherwood who shipped me a handful of screws over his week off 🙏

The thing with mirror blades is they scratch easily in fact there's a couple marks on them already from being carted around. The CV I owned previously had some felt along the playfield edge and I thought that was a neat idea so spent a tenner on amazon and 5 minutes sticking it on, pretty pleased with the result. Also chopped the corner off a coil which was jutting out in the wrong place.
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The glass channel at the top end of the glass was broken and... you guessed it, there was a new one included in the sale! Unfortunately not quite exactly the same dimensions (see 2nd pic) so I had to drill new screw holes. Now I look at this last picture, it seems like it's warped so may need a test fit with the glass before I can call it a success 🤔
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Finally (for today), the resistor PCB in the backbox which sits on the beacon motor lines was rather charred so I took it out - yeah definitely toasted, you can see the traces lifting and all the plastic is melted 🙈 Ordered a new one from pinballshop.nl, got here promptly without having to pay too much duty which I was happy with. One of the connectors is fused onto the board so I will have to cut that off and fit a new one. Will need to find my IDC insertion tool first though - but that's a job for tomorrow!
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Steady but very slow progress on this. Life just gets in the way...

Adjusted the pop bumper switches, put in new spoons and sleeves, the put the PF back in the cab.
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Gave the PF a good once-over with some Novus 2 & 3. Couldn't quite get the ball trails out of the orbits unfortunately.
Did manage to get black rubber back to blue (forgot before pic but it was pretty sooty!)
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Last thing to do was stick on the shooter decal - again this was included in the sale but not done. Luckily it just about slides over the knob and only the 4 screws holding tbe face plate need to come out.
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Got a new 10W resistor PCB and punched new connectors onto the cables, put back in place. Play a game and start multiball to check it works :D
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Oh and at some point I finished putting LEDs in all the GI & backbox!

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And with that I'm pretty much going to draw the line as already spent way more time on this game than I had originally planned! It's in far better shape than when it got here and I'm one game over capacity since TNA landed. Going to put some new balls in it and give it a light coat of wax, then play it for a few days to sort out any niggling issues (e.g. last game I noticed the ball lock released 2 balls at one point). Then it'll be up for the next guy to enjoy :)
 
The locking pin began to stick when operated, releasing multiple balls, while still quite new. Dracula suffered the same. I fitted a snap-in white plastic 'nyliner' to the coil bracket, though even the negligible thickness of its locating edge could affect the working height of the pin. I recall that Dracula gave more difficulties afterwards than Getaway, with a fast-moving ball able to push past the pin or bump through a ball already locked, requiring adjustment of the wire track to match (making it too low would leave balls unable to get past, even with the pin retracted).
 
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