In Progress Earthshaker project

russdx1

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Jul 7, 2018
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I bought a Earthshaker off fellow member @Tony . My main goal is to completely restore it ie completely strip down cab/backbox bondo/repaint/new decals and get a cpr pf, but initial goal is to just get playable.

Here are some before photos and how i received it.

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I have now set it up in my game room with the pf removed. From initial inspections the pf actually looks in very good shape very little paint wear which is nice. Just the usual mylar bubbles under inserts. I am torn between removing mylar or not?? All the mechs appear ok although flippers all gunked up so will need rebuilding. Boards so great although battery holder has corrosion (will replace) the board it self looks great (yay)

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(literally day before had new carpet installed / all walls re-plastered / painted so need to be careful with dirty machine LOL)
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Parts purchased so far
- new legs
- ‎lock down bar
- ‎cpr plastics kit
- ‎cabinet decals
- ‎rubber kit
- ‎lamps
- ‎screw/bolt kit
- ‎flipper rebuild kit
- ‎shooter assembly
- ‎fuses
- ‎plasma alphanumeric display

What i have done so far
- hoovered out the cabinet
- ‎removed weird extra long mains extension lead it had installed.
- ‎tested all fuses (1 was blown)
- ‎tested all coil resistances (look ok)
- ‎rewired up the backbox (all wiring was in cabinet hehe) Tony supplied pictures of it wired which was extremely helpful!
- ‎check all voltages (look good)
- game appears to boot great (flashing diagnostics led)
- ‎plugged pf lamps / switches into backbox (pf next to pin) and was able to credit up and start a game with audio / insert lamps / gi active.

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Faults so far
- ‎no display (high voltages good, display data good) assumed out gassed (found a replacement)
- ‎missing samples / callouts (background music / synth effects work great) it appears any samples stored on roms do not work. Im not sure if its a fault with the audio board roms/components or the cpu board roms/components. I will reseat all roms first then investigate further if still no samples. Quick research says it could be the 55536 CVSD Chip, i did the cpu switch1 test and i get two tones cycling high/low which from the manual says all tests passed? Without the displays i cant run any audio tests from the test menu which will also help identify the problem but will do this once the display turns up. Getting audio 100% is my next task :)

Whats next.
- test insert lamps
- ‎test gi
- ‎test flashers
- ‎test switches
- ‎test coils (need to rebuild flippers first)
- ‎strip down top components on pf / clean them
- ‎give it a good clean
- ‎replace all rubbers/ broken plastics/ any easy off the shelf parts.
- ‎clean pf it self (foam spray/novas2(gentley)/wax)
- ‎put back together (hopefully lol)
- ‎place pf back into machine
- ‎play some earthshaker!!!
- ‎start full restore!!!



Couple questions
- where can i find a 55536 CVSD, only place i can find for sale is marco specialties but shipping is fixed £50!!! (me not paying that!!!!)
- ‎has any one else has simular issues with system 11B no callouts/samples? Ie on this game all speech is missing and all the end of game scoring sounds as it adds up the miles etc... where is best place to start looking? (i have scope on hand so can easily see signals etc...)
- ‎should i try and remove milar? (freeze spray??)
- ‎what is best way to free up gunked up mechs? can you just clean them? or always a rebuild with new parts?

Regards
Russell
 

mufcmufc

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Jul 21, 2011
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I

Couple questions

- ‎should i try and remove milar? (freeze spray??)
- ‎what is best way to free up gunked up mechs? can you just clean them? or always a rebuild with new parts?

Regards
Russell
Do not remove the mylar, you'll likely take a lot of artwork with it
Gunked up mechs should clean up in hot lightly soapy water without problem (including coils) , most are salvageable
 

Sgt GrizZ

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Removing mylar is always a risk - expecially on older games.

The bubbling doesn't look too bad, always looks worse with the game lights off anyway ... if you can live with it and it doesn't affect ball movement I'd say leave it.

My old ES had full mylar. When I sold it the new owner was braver than me and removed it. He lost small amounts of paint in a couple of spots and had to replace the insert decals.

Wonderful games. I have fond memories of it. Was my 2nd machine and the one I cut my teeth on stripping down, cleaning up etc. Have fun!

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk
 
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Tony

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Looks like your having fun, might want to add a remote battery holder to the long list of stuff to do!
Enjoy!
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Ok sounds like a NO to the mylar hehe, I want to get a cpr pf once game up and running so probably not worth it any way :)

I was thinking about the battery holder being remote but these days is it worth it? ie i will only put lithium battery's in it (and will change every year) so does the battery's really need to be remote?

I will be very careful with the sticker :)

I used to live in the states when a lot younger and i remember this machine from a local bowling, used to watch it for ages. So have very fond memory's of it :)


Next step figure out the missing audio speed/samples! :) can continue this once the display turns up and i have access to the audio tests, hopefully give me some more clues :) If any one has a spare "55536 CVSD" or know where to get once please let me know as would be good to have one in case this is the issue :)

Regards
Russell
 
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DRD

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From memory the sounds on system 11 games come from 2 sources. Some are on the sound card, others are on the mpu board. I had some sounds drop on my banzai run a couple of years ago.

@pinballmania sorted me out at the time.
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Yeah that is what i have found out so far as well, my next step is to figure out which source is the speech/end score sound effects :) then can work back from there. I have a scope to hand so can just keep tracing signals back until i find the fault :) What i have read so far is

- bad roms (needs re-seating or data corrupt)
- bad 55536 CVSD
- bad voltage (mines ok so not this)
- bad caps
- bad ribbon cpu cable don't think its this as other sounds are ok)

Ill first try re-seating the roms, then wait until i can access the audio test menu :)

Regards
Russell
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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kk will give that another go, i assumed if the cpu was talking to the audio board ok (ie does play music etc..) ribbon was ok. Not sure how it sends the data so maybe some wires are dedicated for the cpu roms or something.

Regards
Russell Pirie
 

mufcmufc

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kk will give that another go, i assumed if the cpu was talking to the audio board ok (ie does play music etc..) ribbon was ok. Not sure how it sends the data so maybe some wires are dedicated for the cpu roms or something.

Regards
Russell Pirie
Yes but obviously each part of the ribbon carries different data, and the pins can corrode and the ribbons degrade over time. Often weird faults can be ribbon related so it's always worth a go to rule that out first
 

Jay Walker

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Russell,

Re. missing speech - I think the speech comes from the roms on the Cpu board. I recall hearing of a Black Knight 2000 (the same age of game) with no speech, due to wiring between the Cpu and audio boards being missing. Isn't there some other linkage between them, besides the ribbon?
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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After looking at the schematic you guys are correct the speech is actually created on the cpu board via the CVSD and transferred over as actual audio via J16 (3pin cable) and then is mixed in with the audio boards audio. I now know where to prod with the scope :D see where signal is dying.

The 20way ribbon cable appears to just be a data bus for controlling the audio board cpu/roms just sends commands no actual audio. But will swap out anyway :)


Just waiting for the display to turn up as this will be far easier with the audio test menu :)

Regards
Russell
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Had a spare hour to rebuild main flippers. They now move perfectly and free :) The old ones had been really sprayed with wd40 (pretty sure your not meant to put any grease / lubricant on plungers)

One thing iv noticed is all the diodes are cut on the flipper coils. Why would this be? should they be connected back up?

Also resoldered the 3 wires as they where about to come off only few strands holding them on lol (did this after the photo)

Regards
Russell
 

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Jay Walker

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There should be diodes on the flipper coils. Only 'Fliptronic II' equipped games have tie-back diodes elsewhere. Without them, back-emf 'spikes' can have unpredictable and disastrous consequences.
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Interesting its like they where purposely cut for some reason, i can easily solder back together :)

Regards
Russell
 

Jay Walker

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I'd take the trouble to unwind the broken diodes and put on new ones, the vibration of a flipper assembly would be a severe test for a point-to-point solder joint. Williams altered the coil mountings to let the terminals be placed away from the coil stop end of the assembly

Also, there's a statement in Williams service literature (for the Wpc system, but probably still applicable) that an open-circuit diode on a flipper coil "creates a current path through the other side, burning the coil". I've never figured this out, but it was raised by Williams
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Cleaned the subway ramp, came out pretty good might try and flame polish as well get it super shinny.

before
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after
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Came across this interesting can only assume operater repair on top VUK hehe (correct parts on order)
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Had a little bit of luck with audio, i reseated all the audio roms and now have a few more sounds ie the end game bonus/miles scoring sounds which i did not have before. Ill deffo be looking at the CVSD next as only missing voices / center ramp samples now.

Next on todo is rebuild drop targets as all gunked up :)

Regards
Russell
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Bottom VUK rebuilt.
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Drop targets missing an opto oh dear :(
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Replace that and give whole thing a quick clean :)
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Regards
Russell
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Thank you :) slowly getting there :) should speed up once new display in :) (fingers crossed turns up this week hehe)

Regards
Russell
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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New display is in!

Can confirm game has no sounds via the audio test, all the music works but none of the voices. Also the audio test on switch1 on the cpu board (which should play 2 tones on repeat) which used to work, no longer works.

So my money is on the cvsd (on order) or a op amp / cap in the circuit. The schematic for this part of the audio on the cpu board is pretty simple so will trace back with scope until i find life :)

Ill put the pf back into the cab hopefully this week as well so i can start testing all the switches/lamps/coils.

Then will be the big pf strip down :) I have new cpr plastics / rubber kit, and starship ramps on order (thx Phil) and will swap out all the plastic posts. All metal will go in the tumbler.

After reading the jokers shop log(great read) i really want to get all my metal (mainly the mechs) zinc plated as its so cheap and makes them look brand new! so might do this at some point as well.

Regards
Russell
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Speech is now working! (in test menu not tried game)
Does the sound test only cover a few samples? as it plays all the samples it loops through in the sound test, but it does not include ones like eaaaaarth shakerrrrr etc.. (i assume it only tests a few samples)

I put scope on the cvsd and there was no signal going in ?? so re-seated the x2 6802 cpu chips (socketed) and now the speech in the audio sounds menu works :) (and i got my x2 test tones back on cpu board sw1 test)

So fingers crossed that was the audio issue (cpu just needed re-seating hehe)

Next week ill be putting the play field back in the game and testing the pf lamps/switches/coils :)

Regards
Russell
 
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Jay Walker

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Yes, the audio tests of System 11 games only produce a few sounds and words. AIR for Earthshaker the speech is the word "Bitchin'"

The early games with speech produced every word in the audio board test, but back then there were only a few words, often with multiple uses (such as "One" and "Won")
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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  • Audio is all good now :)
  • Lamps all seam to work ok (few blown lamps but easy to swap out)
  • Switches all seam to work
Having some issues with the coils though.
  • When u first turn the machine on and it goes "dong" one of the coils fire for some reason (pretty sure that's not correct)
  • when i first did the coil test they all appeared to work ok although left flipper was very very weak and the left sling shot sort of multi fired in coil test
But now (not sure what went wrong) Half the coils don't fire and the flippers don't register on the switch matrix any more (when they used to) I assume the flippers go through a relay or something to disable them maybe this is why don't show up any more and might be connected to the other coils not working.

Looking at the schematics it appears all these ones are dead (the high power 50ac ones) but fuses seem ok, does that relay on the aux board some how turn them on/off? (the relay clicks fine in coil test)
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So i think i got some issues with the aux power board some where hehe, (would this effect flipper switch matrix some how??)

Regards
Russell Pirie
 

Sgt GrizZ

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  • Audio is all good now :)
  • Lamps all seam to work ok (few blown lamps but easy to swap out)
  • Switches all seam to work
Having some issues with the coils though.
  • When u first turn the machine on and it goes "dong" one of the coils fire for some reason (pretty sure that's not correct)
  • when i first did the coil test they all appeared to work ok although left flipper was very very weak and the left sling shot sort of multi fired in coil test
But now (not sure what went wrong) Half the coils don't fire and the flippers don't register on the switch matrix any more (when they used to) I assume the flippers go through a relay or something to disable them maybe this is why don't show up any more and might be connected to the other coils not working.

Looking at the schematics it appears all these ones are dead (the high power 50ac ones) but fuses seem ok, does that relay on the aux board some how turn them on/off? (the relay clicks fine in coil test)
View attachment 79791

So i think i got some issues with the aux power board some where hehe, (would this effect flipper switch matrix some how??)

Regards
Russell Pirie
A coil firing on power up is not unusual with Sys 11s. Can't remember the reason why but nothing to worry about

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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Ah perfect

Noticed flipper coils do work when starting a game, but the flipper buttons still not registering in switch test when they used to which is strange.

Definitely all cpu controlled 50v coils dead and also noticed top left flipper does not fire and the hard pressing the left button (should flip top left flipper) actually lights all the center ramp flashers?? (somin not right there hehe)

Regards
Russell
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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After some schematic research it appears the flipper buttons connect to the switch matrix via some opto couplers on the interconnect board. This would explain why they stopped working with the coils as my 50v has disappeared.

Ill follow the 50v next and see where it dies.

Also need to figure out why upper left flipper dead / hard press left causes center ramp flashers to all light, must be bad transistor or ground issues i think or maybe a short some where.

Then need to figurr out why 4 zone lamps on building are dead, lamp matrix is ok as other lamps on same row/col are ok so im thinking bad connector or wiring.

Regards
Russell
 
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russdx1

russdx1

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I think there is an issue with the bridge rectifies on the aux power board, I can see 55v go in onto the 50v circuit, and 30v go in on the 25v circuit BUT on J11(should be 25v) i'm seeing 40v (how is it higher???) and on J12(should see 50) im seeing 19v so guessing I have bad rectifiers?

I think this also explains why the game cant detect the flippers as the opto will need to see 50v to trigger but is only getting 19v




Edit: building lamps now all working yay (small win lol) was just bad lamp holders with snapped off tabs.

Edit: i miss read the meter readings the 50v line is reading 19mv not 19v so its dead (ill replace this rectifier) is it ok for the 25v line to be reading 40v? (seems pretty high)

Edit: 40v under no load is ok after some more research :) 35a 200v bridge rectifie ordered from RS hopefully fixes the issue.



pf back in cabinet
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quick test to see how dirty pf is with foam cleaner (Very dirty, will clean up great once stripped)
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Regards
Russell
 
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