Only place I can see them coming close to each other is J5 on the interconnector board. Probably worth taking the board out, making sure nothing is lodged behind it, make sure the ground pads are clean and re-secure.
Only place I can see them coming close to each other is J5 on the interconnector board. Probably worth taking the board out, making sure nothing is lodged behind it, make sure the ground pads are clean and re-secure.
Only place I can see them coming close to each other is J5 on the interconnector board. Probably worth taking the board out, making sure nothing is lodged behind it, make sure the ground pads are clean and re-secure.
J6 is for general illumination and always burned on this board
One thing that may be worth looking at is the flipper switch on the cab is it badly burned and welding together when pressed is the gap correct or maybe disconnect it when it stuck up failing that are you sure it’s not mechanical
I already put the board back in so I could play it yesterday. I can pull it back out if you think I should reflow everything.There is nothing there that instantly scream out 'look at me'.
The added jumpers seem legit.
Is there a short between J7 pins 9 and 10 ?
Is the jumper to fuse F4 shorting to the trace next to it ?
A lot of the header solder joints look stressed. I would reflow them all for piece of mind.
All the Fuses should be the same 5A Slow Blow but they all look different.
I was just watching a video of the game and I noticed that there is a flasher lamp by the magnet that only lights when the magnet is active. If you put the game into test mode and run the test for that flasher, if you manually push the flippers up when the flasher test is running do they stay up ?
There is nothing there that instantly scream out 'look at me'.
The added jumpers seem legit.
Is there a short between J7 pins 9 and 10 ?
Is the jumper to fuse F4 shorting to the trace next to it ?
A lot of the header solder joints look stressed. I would reflow them all for piece o
I was just watching a video of the game and I noticed that there is a flasher lamp by the magnet that only lights when the magnet is active. If you put the game into test mode and run the test for that flasher, if you manually push the flippers up when the flasher test is running do they stay up ?
I’m not so sure. The flippers aren’t transistor controlled so bad logic would be unable to drive the flippers on. I think you have a wiring short somewhere. Have you checked for pinched cables where the head meets the body? Perhaps you trapped something when you put the head up.
I checked once for that...because I thought the same thing. I will drop the head and look for anything pinched. Thank youI’m not so sure. The flippers aren’t transistor controlled so bad logic would be unable to drive the flippers on. I think you have a wiring short somewhere. Have you checked for pinched cables where the head meets the body? Perhaps you trapped something when you put the head up.
I took this flasher out so no light but magnet on and flippers still stay up..This is my thoughts, or something has been re-wired incorrectly.
As the Flippers are stand alone and the magnet coil is effectively isolated from the flippers I'm now thinking that the flasher light associated with the magnet coil may be the missing link as it also shares they grey/yellow on the solenoid matrix.
When you have a moment can you take a picture of the 'Hight Current Driver Board' near to the magnet coil, top right of this picture....and also a picture of the lamp that flashes whilst the magnet is on.
View attachment 64912
I'd be tempted to remove the ground wire off the flipper coil and route a brand new wire direct to the flipper switch, for each flipper.
Yes, great.
Have you got a multimeter that you can test the continuity of the black ground wire from that board to the flipper coils. You will probably need to pull the plug from the back box where that black wire terminates.
I took another look at the circuit for this game, it's just not adding up as to why that magnet activating will hold a flipper up, especially as you say it can be either flipper or both flippers. it really just doesn't compute. So, it seems to pojnt to something wired up totally wrong somewhere, and that leads me to suspect either that rewired circuit board, or maybe someone did some other rewiring elsewhere?
Looking at your pics, the wires going to the magnet coil and to the flipper coils all check out, so it's somewhere else. We know that the flippers trigger on the ground side - so I'd just trace those back all the way from the coil to the ground source, through the flipper buttons themselves.
Clutching at straws here: There is a capacitor across each flipper button switch. There is a slim, slim chance that those could be part of the problem - I doubt it, but I would remove them temporarily just to rule them out.
This issue has really got me intrigued, I must say!
Just to see if it cures the issue, then we know where to lookI can try this.. Do you mean for permanent or just to see if issue goes away?
We are following the ground wire and making sure it is exactly as per the schematic circuit.So if I'm following the wires from the coil what am I actually trying to see? How will I know if something is not correct? Or should I be expecting like a bare wire or something? I just want to make sure I don't miss anything. And are you saying to completely remove the capacitors on the flipper buttons? Or just 1 side?
Thanks every one for all this help!
So is the center post on the coil the ground?Just to see if it cures the issue, then we know where to look
Ok. Thanks. Ill check after work today.Blue-Grey - left flipper ground
Blue-Violet - right flipper ground
as per below schematic:
View attachment 65162