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Complete Data East Star Wars

Looking good - I usually blow over the cab with air gun before decals - or a good clean large paintbrush

Cheers

kev
 
Leg bolts will be taken out and sprayed - just wanted the legs on to get the thing stood up for the first time in weeks!
 
Looks good man!!! only slight criticism is decal is higher on RHS than LHS but for first attempt top job man !!!!

Tip - (as I found out from the guys on here) don't tighten any bolts into the decal areas ie legs coin door etc for about a week or you will get wrinkling around them need to let the adhesive really 'set'

Cheers

kev
 
Cheers Kev. Particularly the advice about not tightening bolts up. Will slacken them off tonight.

I only noticed one side being higher than the other after I’d put both on.

There was only about 15mm overhang on the vertical - which I left at the top, not the bottom so that was schoolboy error on my part. But I left same amount of excess at top on both sides - so should really have centred both by eye to take account of lettering being printed higher up on the decal one side than the other. But then again, like I say was only about 15mm to play with and I think the difference is a lot more than that.

Presumably the same advice about not tightening up leg bolts will also go for back box hinge and playfield lift bracket bolts too so I should wait a week before fixing those back on to let glue properly set?
 
Cheers Kev. Particularly the advice about not tightening bolts up. Will slacken them off tonight.

I only noticed one side being higher than the other after I’d put both on.

There was only about 15mm overhang on the vertical - which I left at the top, not the bottom so that was schoolboy error on my part. But I left same amount of excess at top on both sides - so should really have centred both by eye to take account of lettering being printed higher up on the decal one side than the other. But then again, like I say was only about 15mm to play with and I think the difference is a lot more than that.

Presumably the same advice about not tightening up leg bolts will also go for back box hinge and playfield lift bracket bolts too so I should wait a week before fixing those back on to let glue properly set?
yes mate any bolts that tighten into decals leave a while - you can still put them in and not tighten them and comeback to them later on.

Dont worry about the decal heights was just having a laugh!!!! it looks fab cant wait to see the fully finished job.

Cheers

kev
 
Ooh yes, thanks, will get me some of them ordered.

I ordered Rotten Dog replacement power and PPB boards which arrived today too so I can swap out those for the originals which have been hacked because of the burnt connectors.
 
I also saw stern use a sticky clothes roller for picking up dust and dirt of the cabinets before they applied the decals (using water).
 
Whilst I’m waiting for decal adhesive to fully set I’m gonna crack on with playfield.

Don’t have pinball rotisserie so am gonna clamp it to a couple of saw horses while I work on it.

I stripped most of the parts from it before taking out of cab so so just have some ball guides to remove and then gonna give it a real good clean and T-cut.

I don’t have any foam cleaner in. Anyone got any recommendations for something to do the initial clean up/scrub down with?

Cheers

Andy
 
Thoroughly enjoyed reading this from the beginning, @Andy B :thumbs: Keep up the great work. Looking forward to seeing the first DESW from The Dark Side :)

@newdos I looked back at the first few posts and you can see the vertical positioning of the decals was a bit off between the two sides:

upload_2018-3-24_8-58-39.png

That said, I've never understood why the original artwork wasn't better positioned so that neither the Death Star or B/X-Wing are covered by the side rail. There's plenty of space along the bottom of the design to drop it down a few inches:

upload_2018-3-24_9-1-38.png
 
Nice one @Nedreud. Hadn’t really noticed how the top of the Death Star was chopped off by the side rails on the original.

Wonder how easy it would be to reproduce them with the main image dropped a few inches @PeteB? Would be an improvement over the original artwork I reckon if you could pull it off.

Andy
 
Cabinet base speaker has a couple of tears in the cone(?) presumably I can just swap it out with any regular 8” speaker e.g. one designed to be fitted in a car as long as the ohms rating is the same?
 
Nice one @Nedreud. Hadn’t really noticed how the top of the Death Star was chopped off by the side rails on the original.

Wonder how easy it would be to reproduce them with the main image dropped a few inches @PeteB? Would be an improvement over the original artwork I reckon if you could pull it off.

Andy

Can't be done. What's there is there, if you move artwork down then something else will have to fill in the space. But, the Death Star isn't the focal point of the art - if you look at the spacing between the top of the cabinet and the R, and then the spacing between S and the bottom of the cabinet. The Star Wars text is centered, and everything around it is just filler. Moving it down would probably throw the graphical balance off and make things look weird.

Cabinet base speaker has a couple of tears in the cone(?) presumably I can just swap it out with any regular 8” speaker e.g. one designed to be fitted in a car as long as the ohms rating is the same?

Yeah, any will do as long as the rim rize fits the mounting, and the impedance rating is the same (usually 4ohms). I usually use Lanzar MAXP64 for 6.5" mounts and Lanzar MAP84 for 8" mounts because they're pretty cheap but have tremendous punch, which is a nice little upgrade :)
 
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